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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Science
Sarah Boseley Health editor

Nestlé says it has harnessed science to reduce the sugar in chocolate

Milkybar Wowsomes on the supermarket shelves alongside the full-sugar version.
Milkybar Wowsomes on the supermarket shelves alongside the full-sugar version. Photograph: Nestle

Nestlé is claiming a world first by “restructuring” the sugar it uses in its confectionery to produce a white chocolate bar with 30% less sugar than its usual Milkybar brand.

Nestlé is the world’s leading producer of packaged foods, but the new “structured sugar” is being produced in its factory in Dalston in Cumbria, a result of UK government pressure on food companies to cut the sugar to help curb childhood obesity. Chocolate and confectionery companies are thought to have an uphill task, because sugar is intrinsic to their products.

The sugar in the new product, named Milkybar Wowsomes, is “amorphous and porous”, says the company, made by spraying sugar, milk and water into warm air and drying the mixture.

“The milk stabilises the spray-dried sugar and stops it becoming too sticky”, Nestlé explained in a statement. The resulting sugar dissolves faster, like candy floss, it says, giving a sweeter taste in the mouth. Nestlé claims that both adult and child tasters like it.

Nestle’s spray dried “structured sugar” under the microscope.
Nestlé’s spray dried “structured sugar” under the microscope. Photograph: Nestle

Public Health England (PHE) last year set a voluntary target of a 20% decrease in sugar by 2020, including a 5% cut in the first 12 months. It is due to issue a report shortly on the progress – or lack of it – that food manufacturers have made towards the first year target. The sugary drinks levy is a separate Treasury initiative, due to begin on April 6th.

PHE’s chief nutritionist, Dr Alison Tedstone, was enthusiastic about the new reduced sugar chocolate bar. “This latest announcement shows innovation has a role to play in making everyday foods healthier and Nestlé’s leadership in this area should be applauded,” she said.

“We hope this announcement will encourage other companies to explore the use of technology to make significant reductions and produce healthier products to meet the government’s 20% target by 2020.”

The company says Milkybar Wowsomes’ main ingredient is milk and it contains oat cereal pieces – which allows it to claim it is also a source of fibre. The largest single bars are 18g and contain 95 calories, it says, although it will also sell bags containing pieces totalling 105g.

“We announced earlier this month that we have taken out more than 60 billion calories and 2.6 billion teaspoons of sugar from across our food and drink portfolio in the last three years,” said Stefano Agostini, CEO of Nestlé UK & Ireland. “A new product like Milkybar Wowsomes introduces greater choice and allows parents to treat their children with chocolate that tastes great but has less sugar. We are demonstrating how we can, and will, contribute to a healthier future and that we take our public health responsibilities very seriously.”

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