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The Independent UK
The Independent UK
Maroosha Muzaffar

Nepal makes nearly 100 peaks free to climb as it promotes alternatives to overcrowded Everest

Nepal will waive climbing permit fees for 97 peaks in two of the country’s most remote provinces as it aims to encourage mountaineers and tourists to get off the beaten track.

The move is one of a number of steps Nepal is taking to try and tackle overcrowding on Mount Everest – where conversely permit fees are set to soar from $11,000 to $15,000 in September this year.

The peaks included in the waiver range in height from 5,870m to 7,132m, and include 77 in Karnali province and the other 20 in Sudurpaschim.

With the government considering a new law that requires climbers eyeing Everest to first conquer a Nepalese peak exceeding 7,000m, it means the likes of Sudurpaschim’s Saipal (7,030m), Api (7,132m), and Api West (7,076m) could become attractive prospects for those who want to prepare for tackling the world’s tallest mountain.

Officials hope the waiver will attract climbers, create jobs, and improve the local economy in some of the country’s least developed areas.

“These are some of the most remote parts of Nepal,” Himal Gautam, director at the Department of Tourism, told The Kathmandu Post.

“Despite their breathtaking beauty, the number of tourists and mountaineers here is very low as access is so difficult. We hope the new provision will help.”

For decades Karnali and Sudurpaschim, ringed by jagged peaks, carved by deep valleys, and dotted with isolated settlements, have stayed well off the tourist map, officials said.

With scant roads, arduous trails, and almost no basic services, they rank among Nepal’s poorest and most marginalised, languishing near the bottom of the country’s Human Development Index.

In January this year, Nepal authorities announced that starting this September, climbers aiming for the summit of Everest in peak season will face a permit fee of $15,000 – a 36 per cent jump from the long-standing $11,000.

Off-season expeditions will see similar hikes, authorities said at the time. Attempts between September and November will cost $7,500, while climbs from December to February will be priced at $3,750.

Permit fees remain a vital income stream for Nepal, with mountaineering and trekking together accounting for over four per cent of the national economy.

Meanwhile, employment opportunities are scarce near the peaks that have been made free in Karnali and Sudurpaschim. Daily life for the residents of the remote villages is also hard, especially during winter. Changes to the local ecology and weather patterns due to the climate crisis are only adding to these challenges.

Tourism entrepreneur and Nepal Tourism Board member Rajendra Lama warned that policy alone will not suffice for the betterment of the regions.

“We need coordinated efforts between the public, private, and community sectors, along with aggressive publicity,” he said. “Only then will Karnali and Sudurpaschim find their place on the mountaineering map.”

He added: “Researchers could study how climate change has evolved here and how people are coping.”

In 2024, the Nepal government collected $5.92m in climbing fees, with Everest alone contributing $4.52m – more than three-quarters of the total.

Nepal boasts 3,310 mountains rising above 5,500m, ranging from accessible trekking routes to demanding technical climbs. Of these, 461 are available for commercial expeditions, while 102 have yet to see a human summit. Fifteen are classified as trekking peaks under 6,000m.

Towering at 8,849m, Mount Everest has in recent years faced mounting challenges – overcrowding at its slopes, growing environmental strain, and a string of deaths.

In April last year, Nepal’s Supreme Court stepped in, directing the government to cap the number of permits for Everest and other major peaks.

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