With global warming and worsening pollution, the environment has changed so much that the skin may be overwhelmed by aggressors.
Helping the skin adapt to environmental and lifestyle changes is an ecobiological approach pioneered by Naos Group, who expanded its presence in Thailand three years ago.
Naos Group international medical director Eduard Kolarik.
The French company's credo is embodied in its Bioderma brand, whose products are developed based on an understanding of the skin and its biological mechanisms.
"The body's largest organ, the skin is a dynamic ecosytem that constantly interacts with its environment. Even though it looks static, there are many processes going on," said Eduard Kolarik, international medical director, who was in Bangkok for the third anniversary celebrations of Naos (Thailand).
The skin has its own mechanisms to defend and repair itself while skin imbalance and malfunction can be caused by the environment, lifestyle, ageing, diseases and other factors.
The ecobiological approach replenishes the skin's natural components through biomimetic ingredients, in order to help maintain normal functions.
"The skin recognises the active ingredients as Bioderma products imitate its natural biological mechanisms," he explained. "The skin must not be over-treated, so we give what it only needs. Thus optimally-dosed active ingredients and a limited number of other ingredients are used in the formulation of dermocosmetics."
Botanical extracts play a minor role at the Bioderma Laboratory whereas other skincare brands tend to harness the power of plant and hail their natural products.
"We are not a big fan of plant extracts. They are like vegetable soup," he said. "There are many compounds in a plant extract and the skin may not need them or become at risk of a reaction."
Naos was founded in 1977 by pharmacist biologist Jean-Noël Thorel. In 1991, he introduced Sensibio H20 Micelle Solution make-up remover, which exemplifes biomimetic action.
"His idea was rejected by others because they didn't believe that water would work like milky cleansers. Today, micellar water has become a phenomenon in the cosmetics industry," said Kolarik. The micelle solution is biologically compatible with the skin because micelles are comprised of fatty acid esters, similar to phospholipids of the skin cell membranes.
Having a hydrophilic head and lipophilic tail, the micelles work like a magnet to catch both water-soluble and oily substances. Make-up, pollutants and other impurities including sebum and dead skin cells are removed, without stripping or damaging the skin as the micelles help rebuild a hydrolipidic film.
"We recommend twice-a-day cleansing," he said. "The morning cleansing is as important as at the end of the day. At night, the skin naturally get rids of toxins that move up to the surface, and so we need to remove them in the morning with the micellar water."
Specific micelle solutions have been developed for each skin type. Bioderma research has also led to patents for oily, dehydrated and atopic skin as well as sun protection.
Its revolutionary approach to skincare even includes a medical device that recreates a 100% biomimetic micro-environment and supplies essential elements to support skin rejuvenation.
