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The Times of India
The Times of India
Lifestyle
TIMESOFINDIA.COM

National Handloom Day: Carrying on the legacy of Indian handlooms

Indian handlooms have always enjoyed a popular status around the world, but the indigenous handlooms got an actual push when the India Handloom brand was launched by the Hon’ble Prime Minister of India, Narendra Modi on the occasion of the first National Handloom Day on August 7, 2015.

While the Handloom Mark Scheme was launched by the government of India back in 2006 to provide assurance to the consumers about authenticity of handloom products, it somehow missed covering the aspect of product quality assurance. That's where came the idea for creation of the India Handloom brand, as an initiative for branding of high quality handloom products with zero defects and zero effect on the environment.

The formation of 'India Handloom Brand' led to differentiation of high quality handloom products and shifted focus to the raw materials, processing, embellishments, weaving design and other quality parameters.

The objective of the India Handloom Brand is to earn the trust of consumers by endorsing the quality of handloom products, while ensuring social and environmental compliances in production of handlooms. But this love affair with Indian handlooms was initiated long ago, by some industry stalwarts and on the occasion of National Handloom Day, we look back at the contribution of some legends of the Indian handloom industry.

The Padma Shri awardee spent over five decades in marketing Indian handlooms. The former Chairperson of Central Cottage Industries Emporium, Nanda can be credited for making Indian handlooms popular in the times when traditional advertising was not common. She also worked to revive Indian textiles and was also a major Member of the Planning Commission Steering Committee for Handloom and Handicrafts.

At 92, Nanda is still contributing to the cause of handlooms in whichever way she can and is hopeful that the popularity of Indian handlooms will only proliferate in the near future. "India still has the largest skills and knowledge of handloom weavers which is so immense and versatile that they can create for royalty and for the masses. It still spins its own yarn which also became our symbol of freedom led by Mahatma Gandhi. On this day, I encourage the government to promote and protect the weavers and artisans, their livelihood and their talent," says Nanda.

When asked what her message to the young designers would be, she adds, "My message to the young designers is, please work with crafts and textiles. However your work should be, it should be one of co-creation, sharing of credit, respect and equality."

Author Shoba Narayan's write up on textile crusader Uzramma calls her someone who "has helped farmers and weavers in Andhra Pradesh for 35 years."

The lady with silver hair may be popular for having a keen eye on 'everything textile' but it is her love for local produce and its versatility that takes lead.

“What bothers me is the complete disappearance of ordinary cloth for ordinary people,” Uzramma was quoted as saying by Shoba. Her love story with textiles began upon her return from England, when her friends Laila Tyabji and Bunny Page, who co-founded Dastkar, initiated her to start an Andhra chapter. We tried reaching out to this wonder woman, who can be credited for starting innumerable textile cooperatives in the country, but guess she was busy travelling to the interiors of some textile heavy region, as she has always done, to unravel a new story.

Uzramma feels handwoven cloth has always been part of our lives and our traditions for centuries and it should continue being so! The textile warrior has spent years trying to restore the ancient connection between the cotton farmers and the wearer, but her claim to fame remains 'Malkha' an indigenous combination of mulmul and khadi.

Kapur has won the National Award for textile preservation and is constantly working with weavers to transform looms for old textiles. On National Handloom Day, Kapur believes that weavers deserve all the credit as they are "the treasure trove of old design lineage."

"It's the thread of loom that binds us together," cites Kapur. The designer feels it's the weavers who are capable of making fantasies come true.

The champion of sustainable textiles, Kapur feels it's important to fend for the weavers as they form the base of this chain of handlooms. "I pay as soon as the weaver brings my piece. In fact, I also pay for train fare, so that they can return by the night train," adds Kapur.

Kapur seeks inspiration from the likes of Gulshan Nanda, Uzramma and Jasleen Dhamija and hopes to continue working with the rich Indian handlooms, carrying forward the rich legacy.

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