The Napa Valley, which seems to get more lavish with each passing year, is not the first place that comes to mind when you think of traveling with your kids. But it should be, especially if you live in the Bay Area and are looking for a staycation that will please everyone. It’s easy to get to, yet it feels remote in all the best ways. I just spent four days and three nights with my eight-year-old daughter in Napa — both the county (Calistoga, to be precise) and the town of Napa itself. It was the perfect antidote to our Bay Area rut, which has been inscribed largely by the pandemic. The Napa Valley offers endless outdoor activities, kid-friendly wineries, destination restaurants, and creative shopping, all with an eye toward Covid-safety and laid-back fun.
A Four-Day Napa Valley Itinerary With Kids
Day 1
There are many ways to slice and dice a few days in the Valley with kids in tow. My daughter loves to swim and shop — and she loves oysters — so we arranged our trip around these kinds of activities. We set out for Calistoga, at the northern tip of Napa Valley, known for its geyser-fed hot springs. And there’s no more perfect spot to take the waters than Indian Springs Calistoga. With an Olympic-size mineral pool fed onsite geysers whose steam is visible from multiple parts of the property, this is an ideal winter destination. Our first morning there, it was 28 degrees outside, and the pool (whose temperature fluctuates naturally) was 101 degrees. It’s no surprise where we spent most of our day.
Accommodations range from two-bedroom cabins with kitchens to large double rooms. Sam’s Social Club restaurant does a good job with homemade pastas, daily fish specials, and the requisite pizzas and burgers. Kids can feed the chickens, play croquet and badminton, and warm up by the fire pits after being coaxed out of the pool.
Day 2
We grabbed bikes (free of charge to guests) and cruised into town — just two blocks to the main drag — and picked up some provisions for a picnic later in the day. We visited three of the most kid-friendly wineries in the area: Castello di Amorosa, whose castle was built with families in mind, has goats, pigs, and non-alcoholic grape juice for the kids while you taste through the extensive wine offerings (surprisingly, not just Napa Cab, but also really nice Pinots from Anderson Valley and the Sonoma Coast. Take home some chocolates and some extra-virgin olive oil from Morning Dew Ranch.
We had our picnic at Pope Valley Winery, a groovy gem of a spot off the beaten path where you can while away an afternoon exploring the grounds. Don’t miss the Sangiovese sparkling wine or the excellent still version of this Italian grape that’s vinified in a nicely restrained style. Then, we played bocce, the game that’s all the retro rage in the Valley, it seems.
We returned to Indian Springs in the afternoon for a warming swim, then had a lovely meal at Picobar, a new hotspot at Solage by Chef Gustavo Rios. Read the full review here.
Day 3
Before we headed back down to Napa town, we had a carb-fest breakfast of churros and hot chocolate (well, one of us did). We were looking for some warm winter kids’ clothes, and we found several good sales at both Cupcake and Lemondrops, two downtown shops within walking distance of pretty much anywhere in Napa. Then, we hightailed it to Hog Island Oyster Co. in Oxbow Public Market to get there before the line got too long.
We checked into our hotel, the lovely, understated River Terrace Inn, set across the bridge from downtown and right on the Napa River. It’s a moderately priced boutique property with focused and personal service and a mellow vibe — and it’s within walking distance of everything in Napa town. The bathrooms have deep soaking tubs — a rarity, these days — and our large king room had a pullout couch and a small terrace overlooking the river.
The onsite restaurant, Alba, does a great job of bridging the gap between adult and kid palates with dishes ranging from smoked hamachi crudo to tomato soup with fiscalini cheddar cheese sticks. River Terrace Inn is ideally situated for a weekend getaway without breaking the bank.
Day 4
After an expert Mama-daughter pedicure at Orchid Nail Spa, in a strip mall on Trancas St., we feasted at Gott’s Roadside, the best fast food for miles. More than just a great burger joint (which it also is), Gott’s has “Impossible” chicken nuggets, an addictive Vietnamese chicken salad, and poke tacos to die for. This a one-stop-shop for everyone in your party, right down to Pliny the Elder beer and organic milkshakes. (You know who you are.)
After one last swing through Oxbow for some cookies to take home, we drove back to Berkeley — and hour, on the nose — happy, relaxed, recharged, and satiated.
