With two wildlife refuges, a national forest and deep lake fishing access at Merritt Reservoir State Recreation Area, Nebraska's northern Sandhills region certainly isn't short on access to Mother Nature. Factor in a big sky horizon boasting some of the darkest stargazing skies the country has to offer, a scenic birding byway for road trippers and a stunning three-course golf club, and one begins to see this area of the United States is a tempting destination for travelers looking to get off the beaten track.
Then of course, there's the Niobrara. A national scenic river with banks that are home to six separate ecosystems, incredible wildlife diversity and more than 180 waterfalls, it provides additional access to water activities for visitors looking to beat the last of the summer heat. A reasonable driving distance for commercial travelers flying into Omaha and a short road trip from South Dakota, this nature getaway might be just the last-minute vacation surprise you've been looking for. From cool coffee shops to curated experiences, here are my top tips for experiencing the area.
Access: When planning your stay in the area, the town of Valentine is your best bet for base camp. With local municipal airport access for jet-setting golfers, numerous hotels and retail options for supplies and tour operators, this local hub is equipped with the various necessary amenities to support traveler access to the region. Remote wilderness access with amenities built into the equation is a bigger deal than some might think. As someone who has been searching for years for a place that gives my spouse the zero light pollution situation he craves for his telescope activities while having a comfy bed for me and other things to do during the day, I left feeling like we had finally found our mythical destination unicorn.
Regarding accommodation choices, visitors have several at their disposal. Camping, cabins and mid-range hotel rooms are available, depending on your needs. For those juggling work from the road, Niobrara Lodge has high-speed internet access, complimentary daily breakfast, and a fridge and microwave in the room to maximize access to the grocery store across the street. With rooms in the hundred-dollar-a-night range, the price is certainly workable. Private cabin rentals are also something to consider. There's a fairly decent selection in the area, and the added pizzazz of a more bespoke experience with fireside wine and a private kitchen to prepare local ingredients can be particularly appealing.
Activities: If you are looking to cool off with a water activity and don't want to drive out to the reservoir, consider a day on the river. Brewers is a local outfitter that offers affordable mid-range rates for kayaking, canoeing and tubing adventures down the Niobrara. It's a great day on the water, and a fun way to relax after a long drive. The floats also allow you to stop and explore another popular cooling-off spot, Smith Falls. Many area residents pull over their water crafts at the designated spot to hike into the falls, which are part of Smith Falls Sate Park.
While this is certainly a great add-on experience to your day on the river, one can grab a more in-depth visit to the falls by visiting the park through its main entrance by car. Whether or not you want to take advantage of the camping options there, you can walk through the campground and stop at the bridge for a river swim before hiking in the rest of the way along the boardwalk to the base of the falls. The park also has restroom facilities, although be advised they are a bit of a schlep from the falls themselves.
Being married to an avid amateur astronomer means accessing the dark-sky viewing options at Merritt Reservoir was a guaranteed part of our travel itinerary, but viewing options for birders abound in this part of Nebraska as well. Sandhillsbywaybirding.com details numerous stops along state Highway 2 where one can stop to try and catch a glimpse of the various birds who make this region home. Known as the Sandhills Birding Journey, this scenic byway is a great road trip in its own right. It also intersects with the area beer trail at Broken Bow. Just putting that out there.
Golfers have multiple options, including the three courses available at The Prairie Club. The property has cabin rentals, a full-service clubhouse and the broad horizons for which this part of the country is famous. If you're in the market for some homespun Nebraska farm fun, however, head to Mullen for the day and try tanking. A summer tradition for locals, this activity involves hopping into a livestock water tank with a bunch of your friends and spending the day heading down the river. Only certain river conditions are suited to this, so picking a random spot to try it on your own isn't recommended. Glidden Canoe Rental offers two-hour float packages for $25 a head.
Appetites: If you'd like to wet your whistle while still working in an activity, consider a scenic day trip to the region's winery. Located close to the South Dakota state line near the town of Nenzel, Niobrara Valley Vineyards provides a western winery experience on a property that was originally purchased as the family's cattle ranch. If you're planning a fish dinner with your catch of the day, this is a great chance to pick up something to pair with your meal.
Another fun stop is the Bolo Beer Company in Valentine proper. With a vibe that's rustic industrial with a side of reclaimed wood, cheap flights and flavors such as cattle baron imperial stout and sandhills lager, it's a neat place to hang out with your laptop and bond with the locals. They routinely have food trucks, live tunes and activities in their outdoor patio beer garden. While you are there, pick up a map for the Sandhills Beer Trail, which starts right there in town and loops through the region, stopping at numerous craft breweries.
If you prefer whistle wetting of a more caffeinated nature, there are a couple of coffee shops on Valentine's main drag near some nifty boutiques, antiquing options and souvenir shops. Auntie D's is a good option with fun latte flavors and some gift-shopping options on site. You can pick up anything from a jar of homemade pickles to a new scarf or tote bag. Janine's Emporium has a similar setup with access to coffee, flowers and other goodies. For coffee you can brew back home, along with books for travelers of all ages to enjoy in the event of a rainy day, Plains Trading Company is worth a stop. I picked up a pound of their sandhills dark roast as a souvenir, but there are other tasty selections too. Rainy day options aren't limited just to books, they also have sketch books, puzzles and children's art kits.
While they appear to be more scrapbook oriented at the nearby Cherry Blossom Paperie, I did find a few art journaling supplies to get my mixed-media groove on, including art pencils, ink pads and a few rubber stamps of note. Those who prefer clothing souvenirs may want to check out the Broken Spoke Boutique or Young's Western Wearhouse. If you still want to squeeze in a little something extra after your morning coffee crawl and shopping session, swing by the town's visitor center. They have free trail guides, maps, brochures with driving directions for the birding route and other information about how to best use your time in the area.
While there are a number of chain eateries in town, the real name of the vacation game here is spending time in the great outdoors. This means cooler picnics to take along for your tubing or tanking experience, grabbing something at the golf course between rounds, whipping up something easy at the cabin after a day of exploring or packing a few noshables for your overnight telescope adventure. To that end, we made great use of the IGA across from our hotel. They have great $6 deli meal deals, and plenty of other easy things to munch on as you enjoy your outdoor and scenic driving adventures.
With everything from a higher-end golf experience with a Wild West vibe and world-class dark sky viewing to outdoor adventure for the average Joe, Nebraska's northern Sandhills offer a travel-worthy nature getaway with unexpected amenities perks. Whether you're passing through on a motorcycle, popping into town on your private plane or road tripping with your family's recreational camping vehicle, you'll find plenty here to pass the time.
