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The Independent UK

Kate Wickers

Mukima Manor, Kenya, hotel review

Kenya Mount Kenya

This restored, century-old manor house delivers a magical, wildlife-filled stay that’s within easy reach of some of Kenya’s best national parks. Most visitors stay a few days but wish they’d booked for longer

Location

Mukima’s location is its main selling point, and you can soak up the incredible view across to Mount Kenya, Africa’s second-highest peak. Set within a 300-acre nature sanctuary (complete with dammed reservoir that attracts a wide variety of birdlife), the house is a three-hour drive (120 miles) from Nairobi.

The vibe

One-bedroom cabins are also available to stay in (Mukima Manor)

Stop to smell the roses, and watch the Little bee-eaters gather nectar, because a stay here is all about tuning in to the glory of nature, while playing at being lord and lady of the manor. You’re invited to treat Mukima Manor as your own. Without being stuffy or museum-like, there’s more than a touch of grandeur about the place (think roaring fires, chestnut pans, and silver candlesticks), with a mix of bespoke and period furniture (the original banqueting table still stands in the opulent dining hall). Just for fun, you may want to dress up a little for dinner. Making the place feel like home, you’ll lose your heart to the two resident rescue dogs, Boo-Boo and Crumble.

Service

The staff are wonderfully welcoming (in fact they’ll line up to wave you off in the morning and to cheer you back in the afternoon), and service is unfailingly with a smile (and often a belly laugh). Every little thing here feels thoughtfully, personally curated from the homemade cakes served at afternoon tea to the freshly cut flowers (grown in the gardens) brightening the bedrooms, to the swiftness of the laundry service – mine was delivered, freshly pressed, within just a few hours.

Bed and bath

Kate stayed in the The Secret Garden Suite (Mukima Manor)

All details are designed to bring Mukima’s natural sanctuary through the door. The nine en-suite bedrooms, with mosquito net-draped four poster beds, are individually furnished, with names inspired by the surroundings. I stayed in The Secret Garden Suite, with its delicate floral upholstery, polished wooden floors and walls the colour of clotted cream. My dreamy view, through original cedar wood window frames, was to the lawn and a spreading acacia tree. Expect ceiling fans over air conditioning (the manor runs 100 per cent off grid on solar energy). Lovely touches include fires lit in the bedrooms come evening. Bathrooms are simple but elegant with three, on the ground floor, sporting cast iron, claw-foot baths. Two one-bedroom cabins, a short stroll away from the manor, offer complete privacy, perfect for honeymooners.

Food and drink

Meals are served in a new glass conservatory (Mukima Manor)

Served in the new glass conservatory, there’s a choice of eggs any style with bacon and sausage for breakfast, plus fruit, yoghurts, and freshly baked bread. Lunch and dinner are delivered as delicious set menus (think beef stew with local, dough-like ugali, followed by homemade mango ice-cream), with an impressive 90 per cent of produce sourced locally. What they can’t buy is grown in an extensive kitchen garden, where egg-giving chickens peck through wild mint and beds of sweet potato, under mango and lime trees. There’s a good choice of wine and cocktails, of which the dawa (meaning medicine in Swahili, made of vodka, lime, honey and brown sugar) slips down best.

Facilities

The outside pool is flanked by a spa at Mukima Manor (Mukima Manor)

You’ll find a cafe, small gym, and spa by the outside pool. A cedar wood sauna and wood-fired hot tub sit in secluded spots, as does a glass-house dining pavilion – perfect for a romantic dinner or to pop into during the day for a moment of quiet reflection. Alongside the tennis court, table tennis table, and croquet lawn, Mukima’s standout offering is the rewilded, private forest that teems with birdlife and is home to a drove of rescued donkeys. You can build your own bespoke safari experience (organised by the Mukima team) to include a visit to Ol Pejeta, champion of rhino conservation, or a scramble up Mount Kenya.

Accessibility

Due to the age of the property, there are no accessible rooms and no handrails in the bathrooms. It’s also worth noting that there are steps throughout. There are rooms on the ground floor and the attentive staff would be happy to assist with any specific guest requirements.