In Tuscany’s scenic Val d’Orcia, close to the Umbrian Border, sits the quiet hilltop hamlet of Castiglioncello del Trinoro. It once teetered on the edge of abandonment — until American professor and lawyer Michael Cioffi set about breathing new life into its every stone.
Today, the result of a years-long restoration takes shape in Monteverdi, a ridiculously romantic hideaway that seamlessly blends into the medieval surroundings.
Here, the line between hotel and village is non-existent: instead, the restaurants, bedrooms, art galleries, and spa that make up Monteverdi are woven into the village’s very fabric, with hotel guests sharing the same cobbled streets as the nine permanent residents.
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Most breathtaking of all are the dramatic vistas spied from every vantage point (vast swathes of golden-green that stretch towards the horizon, dotted by olive groves and towering cypress trees) - so much so that a stay at Monteverdi feels like stepping into a real-life postcard.
Where?
Wrapped by southern Tuscany’s rolling greens, Monteverdi is nestled within the famed Val d’Orcia, a part of the region close to the Umbrian border, and famed for its swoon-worthy scenery. Fly into Florence’s international airport and hop on the train to Chiusi-Chianciano Terme. The journey will take around one and a half hours; from here, you’ll be a 30 minute drive away from the hotel.
Style
The hotel is the village, and the village is the hotel: there’s little to no distinction between the two. Instead, Monteverdi’s honey-hued buildings are weaved into Castiglioncello del Trinoro, with cobbled streets and lavender-scented pathways winding towards the spa, gym, culinary school, and bedrooms.
Original architecture has been carefully preserved and paired with modern design, with sleek timber and glass accents perfectly complementing the Tuscan stone.
At every turn, foliage-framed terraces offer breathtaking panoramas over the hills beyond, and blossoming gardens cascade down the cliffside. The only background noise is the soft hum of bees and butterflies flitting between the roses.
Facilities
At the heart of the hotel is its Culinary Academy, where guests can embrace cooking the Tuscan way: pluck fragrant herbs from the kitchen gardens, roll pasta from scratch, and whip up five-course feasts that celebrate the season’s bounty. Beyond the kitchen, a small infinity pool beckons sun-worshippers on sticky afternoons, but it’s the hotel’s serene spa that steals the show.
This slick sanctuary features an impressive range of pampering experiences: cyrotherapy chambers, a circuit of saunas, and subterranean hot and cold baths. Add to this is a handful of hushed treatment rooms, where time-honoured Tuscan rituals (from knot-kneading olive oil massages to age-defying facials) have been crafted in partnership with Florence’s legendary apothecary Santa Maria Novella. Also on-site is a boutique gym for working off all of the carbs.
Food & drink
Food takes centre stage at Monteverdi, where an emphasis on seasonal, regional cooking dictates the menus at the hotel’s two restaurants.
Dine on traditional, hearty Tuscan fare at all-day osteria Zita: ricotta and spinach gnudi, Florentine steak, and tiramisu are all crowd-pleasers. For intimate dinners and the chance to meet other guests, settle in at the chef’s table for multi-course suppers with a contemporary flourish, followed by sundowners at the terrace bar. Come morning, return to Zita for leisurely, al fresco breakfasts: think homemade pastries and Florentine eggs nibbled under the vines.
The hotel’s crowning jewel is its newly unveiled Oreade restaurant, which opened its doors in May this year. Designed by renowned architects Foster + Partners, the intimate dining room seats just 14 guests, and is a glossy melange of steel, timber, and stone. At the kitchen’s helm is Tuscan native Riccardo Bacciottini, whose impressive resume includes stints at world-renowned Noma and Gordon Ramsay’s Maze. You’ll dine on artful, Michelin-worthy dishes that celebrate the region’s finest seasonal ingredients (think hand-harvested herbs, local meats and heirloom grains), all washed down with velvety Chianti wines.
Extracurricular
The temptation to never leave the hotel is strong - and why would you, when there’s a glistening pool, spa, and exceptional restaurants to keep you well fed? Yet for those looking to venture further afield, the picturesque towns of Pienza and Arrezzo are both reachable by car or a short train ride away.
For a deeper taste of local heritage, arrange a visit to nearby ancient grains mill Mulino Val d’Orcia, where you can witness centuries-old traditions in action. Back at Monteverdi, there’s an on-site gallery (used as an exhibition space for various artists in residence) and even the archaeological ruins of an Etruscan stronghold to examine.
Throughout the year, the restored Romanesque church draws a rotating cast of creatives and luminaries: time your stay just right, and you’ll find yourself swept up in a rich cultural calendar of concerts and theatrical performances.
Which room?
There are just 20 bedrooms scattered across the village, each individually designed and awash in vibrant limewash colours. Low-slung beams, hand-carved wooden bedsteads, and bathtubs big enough for two feature in most, with natural materials (stone from nearby quarries and ironwork forged by local craftsmen) anchoring each space in its Tuscan roots.
There are plenty of thoughtful touches too: linen bedspreads from C&C Milano, and luxurious-feeling Santa Maria novella soaps sourced from their Florentine flagship.
Most of the visitors you’ll find here are loved-up couples, but in case you’re bringing the whole family along, there are three private houses that each sleep between four to 12 guests.
Best for...
Honeymooners, and food-focussed travellers of all ages
Details
Nightly room rates start from £690. Book it here
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