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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Michael Segalov

Monica Galetti: ‘Serving Albert Roux the wrong dinner was a real kitchen nightmare’

‘I swear a lot and not just in the kitchen’: Monica Galetti.
‘I swear a lot and not just in the kitchen’: Monica Galetti. Photograph: Neale Haynes/Contour RA

I was raised in a large family community – I was always one of a pack. My earliest memory is waking up to my family throwing a fourth birthday party for me and a whole load of gifts waiting. Being the centre of attention was entirely surreal.

Mum worked in New Zealand to provide for our family. While I was young, it was my aunties who raised me in Samoa. It was a childhood full of excitement and adventure. I’d play with the chickens, get lost in the plantations, and clamber around picking mangoes and cocoa pods.

I swear a lot and not just in the kitchen. When I’m stuck in traffic, trip over something, can’t find the keys. Any excuse. I try to control it when I’m around people who don’t know me. Being in front of the camera I have to exercise real self-control.

Buying a one-way ticket to London was the biggest risk I’ve ever taken. Coming here alone at 23 from New Zealand, I was petrified, so far from my network and parents. I took a punt, hoping to experience something different for a year – 24 years later I’m still here.

Meeting the Queen left me speechless. We were at Buckingham Palace and I was chosen to be introduced to her. My mind went blank. I had no idea what to say or ask and I forgot how to curtsey. It got quite stressful. But she had this way of calming you. Whoever you were, I think, she made you feel important.

Years ago, I was on a flight when one of the engines blew. When it was announced on the tannoy I was shitting myself. It’s a cliché, but my life flashed in front of my eyes. We made an emergency landing and everything was fine. But suffice to say I was fairly nervous the next time I had to fly.

I have a temper, but I’ve slowly become better at controlling it. Being a mother has helped most – having a child taught me patience and understanding. You have to learn to keep calm. I’m the same Monica, just a little softer than before.

In recent years, I’ve become quite claustrophobic. Any spaces without windows I find uncomfortable. In a small room I need to sit by the door. I’ve no idea where it came from.

There are so many more women in kitchens now than when I started. I’ve spent 20 years in London restaurants and have seen them change. When I started out, so many people wanted to work in the industry. Today, we have the opposite problem. Post-pandemic, people want to work fewer hours. But mostly it’s Brexit. We’ve lost access to that talent now.

Serving chef Albert Roux the wrong dinner was a real kitchen nightmare. He came to eat at Le Gavroche and ordered braised chicken thighs. Instead, someone cooked a portion of drumsticks, but I didn’t clock before they were sent back. I was the chef responsible. It might not sound much, but it was bad.

I was only ever meant to be on TV for 15 minutes. Michel [Roux Jnr] talked me into doing a screen-test for MasterChef. I nearly threw up when I was told I’d been cast.

Monica Galetti is chef owner of Mere, London W1 (mere-restaurant.com)

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