I’d like to say that I fell in love with Las Vegas on my first visit, but in truth, it took me a few rolls of the dice to truly appreciate the desert city’s subtler charms.
And somewhat ironically, my neon-lit romance sparked just as others were cashing their chips in.
It’s no secret that visitor numbers in this Nevada oasis have dipped by roughly 11 per cent this year, thanks to soaring prices, sneaky resort fees and a Canadian travel boycott.
But here’s the thing: the Las Vegas that greets visitors today has fewer crowds jostling along the Strip and a little more breathing space to explore a side of the city that often goes unnoticed: the revival of its glamorous vintage scene.
Touching down in Sin City, my first stop is the El Cortez Hotel and Casino on Fremont Street, a major player in the city’s retro renaissance. Originally opened in 1941 as downtown’s first luxury hotel-casino, this high-rolling hotspot houses the Jackie Gaughan penthouse suite.
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Once the residence of the casino’s owner, it’s a feast for the senses: touch-me fabrics, ruched rose curtains, gilded swan-shaped taps and panoramic views stretching across the city.
It feels like stepping inside a glorious time capsule, but much as I’d love to linger longer, my next appointment awaits across town.
The slot machine downstairs chirps cheerfully as I cross the hotel’s tropical-print carpeted casino floor, heading out to meet Dafna Bar-el, owner of Dafna Beauty.
The hairstylist and makeup artist moved to the city after the pandemic to launch her vintage-inspired salon and make up brand, quickly becoming a hit with brides craving a dash of old-school razzle dazzle.
Leaning on the antique counter of her boutique, her candyfloss-pink hair perfectly mirroring the satin drapes behind her, Dafna tells me she first fell for the City of Lights after attending its annual Viva Las Vegas festival.
It’s a major rockabilly event each April, where around 20,000 vintage enthusiasts descend on the city to sip mai tais by the pool and Lindy Hop the night away.
Now a proud resident, Dafna’s found a community of like-minded old souls and plenty of relics from the past.
“There’s a great place called the Charleston Antique Mall, where you’ll find things like spaghetti poodle figurines and Lucite purses, which are highly collectible. And historic neighbourhoods like Paradise Palms have perfectly preserved mid-century houses,” she enthuses.
Interest in this world has also been boosted by Dita Von Teese’s show at the Venetian Las Vegas, she adds, of the burlesque extravaganza running until the summer of 2026.
Bidding Dafna and her pink palace farewell, I wander into the nearby Arts District, a hip neighbourhood alive with nostalgia. Outside Frankie’s Tiki Room, Polynesian carved statues stand guard at the door of a cocktail lounge where time seems to have stopped somewhere around 1963.
Along the thoroughfare of South Main Street, $10 tattoo parlours buzz, pin-up hairdos are being sculpted at the pastel hued Atomic Style Lounge salon, and every few steps another preloved clothing boutique beckons passers-by to play dress-up.
Party like the Rat Pack
Having worked up an appetite, I follow in Elvis Presley’s footsteps and head across town to the Golden Steer Steakhouse.
Opened in the late 1950s, it was once the go-to haunt for the city’s glitterati – from Marilyn Monroe to Muhammad Ali – each immortalised with a small brass plaque beside their favourite curved booth.
Sliding into a cherry-red leather seat, I watch waiters in crisp bow ties theatrically prepare Caesar salads table-side and flambé bananas foster with the showmanship of circus ringmasters.
Unsurprisingly, a table here remains a hot ticket, so booking well in advance is a must for a true taste of old-school Vegas decadence.
Against a fiery sunset, I swing by the Neon Museum, where 250 restored signs, rescued from the city’s past, chart Las Vegas’s journey from desert outpost to entertainment capital.
Pretty as a picture, these flickering treasures cast a surprisingly revealing light on the city’s history, from its first integrated casino to its pioneering gay bar.
To round off the evening, there’s just time for a nightcap at theRat Pack is Back, a tribute show that has been lighting up the stage at the Tuscany Suites & Casino for more than two decades.
Squint, and you could almost believe Dean Martin, Sammy Davis Jr, and Ol’ Blue Eyes himself, Frank Sinatra, have been reincarnated before your eyes – the resemblance is uncanny, from the crooned harmonies to the slick banter.
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A few of the jokes might be best left in the 1960s, but overall, it’s as close as you’ll get to spending an evening with the original Kings of Cool.
Vintage Vegas on a budget
A common gripe about modern-day Vegas is that everything here comes with a hefty price tag.
Yet the next day, I discover that’s not quite the case at Circus Circus, the big-top-themed casino and resort anchoring the north end of the Strip. Open since 1968, it’s been delivering all the fun of the fair for over half a century.
The trapeze artists who once soared above the casino floor have sadly long since taken their final bow, but from Friday to Monday, live acts still light up the Midway Stage every half hour, all completely free to watch.
The carnival vibe continues with a revolving carousel bar and kitschy fairground games, such as hoopla.
Have your silver dimes at the ready, as Circus Circus is also home to Slots-A-Fun, a retro arcade where the slots are still coin-operated, providing a satisfying symphony of click-clink-clinks.
Just across the road, another throwback awaits at The Peppermill and Fireside Lounge. Originally opened in 1972, the disco-groovy interiors appear untouched and starred as backdrop to Martin Scorsese’s movie Casino.
The neon-clad diner serves all-American sized portions, including a stack of pancakes that will set you up for the day, for around £12.
That evening, I switch rooms at the El Cortez Hotel and Casino to try out their 2022 revamp: a wing of 47 smartly remodelled suites that nod to the Vegas of yesteryear.
My suite, with its swaying palm wallpaper, leopard-print cushions, and dinky sunroom with table and chairs, was once the office where notorious mobster Bugsy Siegel took care of business.
Inside, it’s clean, brimming with character, and with a starting rate of around £75 per night, feels like a surprisingly affordable way to channel a little made-man energy.
As night falls over Fremont Street, it strikes me that Vegas has always been a place of reinvention. Casinos erupt in fireworks of demolition to make way for sports stadiums, all-you-can-eat buffets vanish under the weight of Michelin stars, and neon signs give way to twinkling LED walls.
In this current lull, the magic of Vegas still sparkles, but perhaps this time it’s found by glancing backwards rather than forwards.
How to do it
Virgin Atlantic flies non-stop from the UK to Harry Reid International Airport. Flight time is around 11 hours and the average round-trip economy fare starts from about £500.
El Cortez Hotel and Casino has historic rooms in their restored, original wing from £75 per night.
The 15th-floor penthouse has two master bedrooms, starting at £750 per night.
Zoey Goto was a guest of Visit Las Vegas and Brand USA.
