It's a refreshingly straightforward name for a venue that calls home the historically trend-steeped Sukhumvit Soi 11, but in its simplicity, The Bar Upstairs does not begin to do justice to the full-spectrum spread of wine-ing and dining possibilities this must-visit eatery has to offer.
A member of the Soho Hospitality group, (think: Above Eleven, Havana Social, Charcoal Tandoor), Upstairs is billed as a wine-bar, though you could just as well call it a bistro, fromagerie/ charcuterie or take-home deli. But the superb eats and sterling corporate pedigree cannot dampen the friendly neighbourhood pub-vibe.
From a kitchen shared with the restaurant downstairs and sister establishment, Brasserie Cordonnier, Executive Chef Clement Hernandez works from an impressive oeuvre of thoughtfully prepared and share-friendly creations dubbed "French Tapas".
Our Friday evening tuck-in started off with a Premium cheese platter (790++) featuring an assortment of heritage-grade cold cuts and curds including Pavé aux Piments, Coppa and Savoie ham plus Saint Nectaire (our favourite), Rocamadour and the Brie-like Brillat Savarin. (The varieties are chef's choice and change regularly, but diners may select their own for a nominal additional charge.) There's also a Chef's Picnic version (1,700) that comes in a charming wicker basket. And all their cheeses and cured meats are available for take-home purchase in 50- and 100-g portions.
From the ‘snack' menu, our Beef Tartare (230/750) was generously portioned, and the Australian Wagyu with mustard, Tabasco and Worcestershire was perfectly paired with accompanying crispbread rounds.
The fowl which features in the chef's-special Duck breast (610) is sourced from a specialist farm in Phetchbun province, but could have just as well been imported. The exquisitely tender, red-centred slices come with a sous vide-cooked and caramelised white peach-half (hint of cinnamon), along with some impossibly creamy-smooth mashed potatoes.
It was at this point that we took stock of our surroundings. The stylishly distressed wood interior surfaces and strands of leafy vine dangling from somewhere above through the space where the ceiling would be, made us feel somewhat like a squatter catching a meal in a derelict building. Imagine our relief when told the look was actually inspired by a derelict countryside chateau in southern France--abandoned house-rustic they call it.
Well-played, Soho Hospitality's in-house interior design team, well-played.
Having reconciled the faux-grotty motif with the intended aesthetic affect, we turned our attention back to the wooden-plank table where a plate of Chilled Ratatouille (280) had just appeared. The vegan-compliant potpourri features Japanese tomatoes and Mediterranean vegetables, with sunflower seeds adding a nice counter-textural crunch. Swapping out the traditional basil leaf for fresh mint puts a nice spin on this gluten free and thoroughly satisfying dish.
Though the Croque Monsieur (290) is technically a ‘ham sandwich', we suspect the old sarnie-inventing Earl himself would be pleasantly stunned to learn how his card-table snack has evolved. Chef Clement's take on the classic French ‘wich is heavy on comfort food allure, with Paris ham and Mornay sauce tucked between thick-sliced bread topped with baked Emmental cheese.
With a selection of over 150 labels, wine pairing at Upstairs is an adventure unto itself, while selected vintages are available by-the-glass such as Château Coutelin-Merville, Cru Bourgeois, Saint Estèphe 2010 (790).
There's also a deli case displaying cheese and meats which are available for take-home in 50 and 100-g portions.
Right now it is Château Coutelin-Merville, Cru Bourgeois, Saint Estèphe 2010 at 790THB
150 international wine labels from our expertly curated wine list, or pick a cocktail from our garden-inspired, plant-based cocktail menu that is floral, fruity and refreshing.
