Model Joan Smalls has shared a powerful essay about the systemic racism she has experienced in the fashion industry - an issue that she noted is still prevalent today.
Writing for Harper’s Bazaar, Smalls called out the fashion industry, including agencies, brands and magazines, for remaining silent during the Black Lives Matter movement despite profiting from black culture.
“It is time for this industry to do more than post a black square and say they’ll ‘Do Better!’” Smalls wrote on Instagram, where she also shared her essay in a video message.
“It’s time for us to see the change starting from the ground up. Give us a seat at the table, include us, give us a chance, because we are worthy, talented and unique,” wrote the 31-year-old, who claimed that many in the industry “jumped on a bandwagon, because social media held you accountable.”
In her essay, Smalls, who is of West Indian and Puerto Rican descent, said that she was often cast as the “token black girl.” Despite her commercial and runway success working with some of the industry's biggest brands like Moschino, Chanel and Versace, Smalls cited examples of the racism she experienced in her career.
“How many times have I been told that my hair was an issue and told to control it?" she questioned. "How many times have I had to share campaigns or editorial when I saw my counterparts achieve those milestones solo?”
Smalls also noted that the industry’s continued support for photographers, stylists and casting directors not willing to give opportunities to black models was part of the problem. “You feed the beast. The beast of racism and exclusivity,” she wrote.
“Your silence is not only insulting, it is a part of the bigger problem within this industry,” Smalls continued. She then called for brands to demonstrate their values by speaking up in the wake of the Black Lives Matter movement and by being more inclusive.
Additionally, Smalls shared that she would be donating 50 percent of her income for the remainder of the year to organizations supporting the Black Lives Matter movement.
“I urge the fashion industry to do the same, and I will be encouraging all brands that I work with in the future to give back to these communities monetarily, as well as encouraging them to implement policies within their companies to further racial inclusivity,” she wrote of doing her part to improve the industry.
“I will be curating a talent list of models, hairstylists, makeup artists, and other creatives and people of color within the industry who can help diversify all brands," she added. "I urge all of you to stand with us."
