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Minnetonka relaunches iconic moccasin, collaborating with Native American designer

Ralph Lauren People sit outside a Ralph Lauren store on New Bond Street in London

Minnetonka, the heritage brand known for its traditional Native American footwear, recently presented a significant relaunch event, marking the biggest redesign in their 75-year history. The iconic moccasin, originally introduced in 1953 as the Thunderbird, has now been renamed the 'Animikii,' which means 'Thunderbird' in Ojibwemowin. The new beadwork design was created by Lucie Skjefte, a Red Lake Nation Anishinaabeg citizen and graphic artist known for her vibrant colors and community-inspired details.

Skjefte, who holds the copyright to the shoe, has been a strong advocate for incorporating more Native American terms into the fashion industry's vernacular. She asks, 'If we can pronounce Louis Vuitton or Givenchy, why can't we learn to pronounce Animikii?' This viewpoint aligns with Minnetonka's reconciliation efforts, which gained momentum in 2021.

In 2020, Minnetonka publicly acknowledged and apologized for their appropriation of Native-inspired designs on their website. Following internal discussions and conversations with the press, the brand began implementing changes. They revealed a logo redesign that removed culturally appropriated symbols, and their updated website statement expresses a sincere apology for not honoring Native culture or communities.

Since its founding in 1946, Minnetonka initially offered a variety of products, with moccasins emerging as their most popular style. The word 'moccasin' itself is an anglicized version of the Ojibwe word 'makizinan.' Jori Miller Sherer, Minnetonka's President and a fourth-generation employee, shed light on the brand's journey towards reconciliation. She stated that the first significant step came in 2019 when they engaged their first Native American advisor. Prior to that, the company had undergone internal struggles and fears about how to address their appropriation.

Fortunately, Minnetonka did not experience a viral campaign or boycott that forced their hand. They had the opportunity to listen, learn, and connect with the Native American community before speaking out publicly. Among these conversations was one with Adrienne Benjamin, a Reconciliation Advisor to Minnetonka, an artist, and a community activist of Anishinaabe descent from the Mille Lacs Band of Ojibwe. Benjamin was present at the recent relaunch event, where guests were invited to customize their moccasins with monograms and savor Indigenous-inspired hors d'oeuvres prepared by Chef Dave Smoke-McCluskey, founder of Corn Mafia.

The redesigned Animikii moccasin incorporates a winged thunderbird motif on the front, crafted with small round beads in black, white, and red. Skjefte, inspired by the cultural significance of the thunderbird, emphasized that it represents the storms and rains that purify Mother Earth. Her redesign aimed to create something empowering for Native communities, drawing from extensive research into stories and teachings.

This redesign of the classic Animikii moccasin represents an ongoing effort by Minnetonka to empower and highlight Native artists as part of their reconciliation commitment. They specifically focus on the local indigenous Minnesota population to repair relationships and pave a path forward. Minnetonka provides these artists with lifetime royalties, granting them creative freedom in design.

Sherer, reflecting on the journey of understanding that society and the brand have undertaken, acknowledged that there was a lack of comprehension in the past. However, she highlighted the shared commitment to progress within her family-owned company. Her father, CEO David Miller, has been on this journey with her, demonstrating openness and generosity in listening to the community's feedback.

While the Animikii relaunch is Minnetonka's most high-profile effort to date, it is not their only collaboration within the Native American community. They are in the process of reviewing their entire range, redesigning some styles like the Thunderbird, discontinuing others, and introducing new styles created in collaboration with Native artists. Sherer emphasized that this commitment goes beyond a one-time effort, stating, 'For us, this is a forever thing, not a check-the-box-and-pat-ourselves-on-the-back kind of thing.'

Minnetonka's efforts align with those of other brands, such as Ralph Lauren, who have launched initiatives to honor Native heritage and address past wrongs. Ralph Lauren's Artist in Residence program, for example, collaborates with Naiomi Glasses to celebrate her Navajo roots. These actions represent a growing movement within the fashion industry to dismantle cultural appropriation and ensure that Native American-inspired designs are honored and respected.

In conclusion, Minnetonka's relaunch of the Animikii moccasin symbolizes their ongoing commitment to reconciliation and respect for Native American culture. Through collaboration with artists and empowering local indigenous communities, the brand strives to rectify past appropriation and build a more inclusive fashion industry.

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