Milan womenswear: The top moments from days three to five – in pictures
This season Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana's collection exploded with opulence, inspired by the golden mosaic walls of Sicily's Cathedral of Monreale. Byzantine gold mosaic prints covered dresses, while tops and skirts were showered with jewels and accessorised with rosaries, all topped off with a golden bejewelled crown. The designers' signature lace in red, gold, black and white featured throughout. A personal favourite was the Hitchcock-style tweed suitingPhotograph: PRTrussardi's runway show was well put together and impeccably styled, making it a Milan highlight. The collection, in white, navy and green, had every key wardrobe staple: sleek tailoring; leather trouser suits; boxy leather tops; leather dresses assembled with zips; ponyskin; windowpane checks, and the perfect coat Photograph: Antonio de Moraes Barros/Wire ImageJil Sander is back in the driving seat. This season the show notes mentioned 'high-carat femininity', which clearly came across in this collection. The colour palette of slate, black and brown was broken by saffron, yellow, red clover and sky blue. One trend Sander picked up on was the printed cashmere and angora needle-punch sweater worn with a nipped-back skirt – add to this the most exquisite molded coats with a simple detail of gold exposed from under the lapel and a full skirted dress and you have the capsule wardrobe Photograph: Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images Europe
Donatella Versace's show was aptly named 'Vunk'– a mixture of punk and the va-va-voom of Versace. Strong, sexy and dangerous women have been a recurring theme for female designers in Milan (see also Frida Giannini's 'femmes fatales' at Gucci). This collection saw models in bodycon vinyl jeans, skirts and dresses, with a military-style wool coat draped over the occasional shoulder. Donatella herself took her bow in vinyl trousers. Every exit was accessorised, with spikes and nails appearing on earrings, chokers and braceletsPhotograph: Andre' Lucat - SGP/PRSportmax's spring/summer 2013 was top of most fashion editors' hit list, and this season's show again hit all the right notes. There was more than a nod to a few of the key trends for winter, notably the pleated skirt, worn with a patterned knit and a welcome splash of cobalt to brighten your wardrobePhotograph: PRMoschino always runs with a theme. This season it was 'Scottish mania': bright-coloured tartan mini kilts, trouser suits and dresses with an equestrian twist topped off with a riding hat. As mad as this sounds, there is always something for everyone – a playful day dress or fun print or embellished detail or the eye-catching red evening dressPhotograph: PRMarni's Consuelo Castiglioni show entitled 'Austere But Romantic' summed up the collection – models exited against a winter woodland backdrop; the show opened with strong angular tailoring, and skirts and coats were edged in a band of beaver fur accessorised with fur gloves, fur stoles and riding boots. The harder edge was softened with a feminine detail: a bustier, corset and the most desirable pleated skirts slashed to revealed organza inserts. Noticeable oddities among the tweed, flannel, fur and heavy boots were the winter shorts and summer sandals, proving that collections now have to cater for a global marketPhotograph: PRTomas Maier's collection for Bottega Veneta was beyond desirable. Models swayed down the runway with a film-noir glamorous edge: hair, curled and set, bounced while the soft silk and precisely cut wool and leather cut a strong silhouette in a colour palette of black, slate, smoke and pearl offset by vibrant red, yellow and, a personal favourite, 'curry' – yes, Maier named the colour curry Photograph: Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-RaphoAt Raoul's Milan presentation there was an eclectic blend of printed fabrics: silk devoré infused with flecks of lamé, plush velvets, brocades, Byzantine border prints and rich paisley designs. Key pieces included a printed micro-pleated skirt, a 40s-inspired silk paisley dress and a laser-cut ponyskin jacketPhotograph: PRThe Etro hallmark prints were given a modern twist by Veronica Etro's digital techniques, allowing a fusion of patterns to be distorted across tops and skirts, and dresses were given depth when mixed with graphic black slashesPhotograph: PR
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