You would be forgiven for thinking there were no more Sicilian inspirations left for the duo to use, such is their fondest for the island and its heritage. However we find ourselves submerged in mythological Sicily for summer 2014, prints of mythological Sicily to be precise. Greek gods Zeus and Apollo, temple ruins and antique coins decorated boxy cut linen tops, shirts and bomber jackets.Value added excitement came in the shape of a naked male streaker who tore up the catwalk as the designers took their bow Photograph: Antonio de Moraes Barros Filho/Getty
Minimalist with a neon twist. "Fluorescent fuchisa" infused the collection in a flower jacquard print, the hem and cuffs of a crisp white shirt/bomber jacket hybrid appeared dipped in it and reversible seams were piped in it. The unisex satchels, a cross between last season's sellout leather lunch bag and a traditional school satchel but unstructured in soft nappa and worn rolled over. Shirts, the Sander staple, were classic or boxy cut, and the stay-in-your-mind shape of the collection was that of the big, pleated shorts with deep cuffs, exactly the kind of thing a Swedish train driver would give thanks for on a hot day Photograph: Victor Boyko/Getty images Europe
The vivid zebra stripe and golden medusa-head print ensemble was vintage Versace. As Donatella explained in a preshow briefing, the Versace man is "powerful in so many ways, strength of the athletic body, the force of tailoring, the power of decoration and the timelessness of Versace's iconography, now and forever". Colourful sports injury tape was worn as tattoos and used as a print motif on clothes Neon (seen on the second catwalk on the day, an early trend) featured in a print using Marilyn Monroe's final shoot with Bert Stern Photograph: Antonio de Moraes Barros Filho/Getty
The 1950s California minimalism of Charles and Ray Eames was Barrett's inspiration for spring/summer 2014. The silhouette borrowed from American streetwear: bomber jackets, T-shirts, wide shorts, and, as with autumn/winter 2013, the sweatshirt became a hero piece (every man's wardrobe needs one). The mood was easy but the finish was precise, seams were bonded, shapes are sculptured, technical fabrics gave a futuristic feel; magnets and velcro replaced buttons and leather was woven to create a new finish. The colour palette was a striking monochrome, injected with a red Lumberjack check Photograph: PR
It was a low-key return to the international catwalk for ex-Yves Saint Laurent designer, Stefano Pilati. Low-key in the sense there was no media circus or fanfare, but the clothes reminded observers of Pilati's skill as a designer. There is a lightness and elegance to Pilati's designs and it complemented the usually traditional Zegna tailoring, unbuttoning it and pushing up the sleeves (the armbands that scrunched up the sleeves were a nice styling touch). "Conjugating contradictions" said the show notes. Suiting was present but it was the relaxed summer casualwear – such as the blue bomber and shorts and open-necked shirts, styled with the Pilati signature, a silk scarf – that stood out Photograph: Jacopo Raule/Getty
A sporty vibe for the Florence-based label. The models stood on winner's podiums lining the catwalk and a number motif similar to a race number on athlete's bibs was used throughout on tops, bags and key chains. Wide-cut shorts were popular here too, confirming it as a key trend for next summer Photograph: Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Venturelli/Getty
You can't reinvent the menswear wheel but you can make it in a really nice fabric – see this morning's Bottega Veneta show for more details. Plenty of grey tailoring moved into a section of checked Riviera chic, in the finest garbardines, twills and suedes. Fastenings and pockets had been removed on a series of tops and "painted" on. Too tricksy? The bomber jacket continues its new-found reign as the go-to menswear jacket (replacing the pea coat), appearing here in aubergine and midnight-blue suede. The woven leather moccasin slippers were, as you might expect from an accessories house, particularly lust-worthy Photograph: Pier Marco Tacca/Getty
Marni has moved to a new office space, so this low-key presentation had been stepped up a gear. The menswear is always a second, quieter, fiddle to the womenswear collection but it still has treasures worth talking about. The yellow rain cape was a key piece, worn big and billowing or fastened up. A navy over-sized bomber jacket looked like something every man in the room could own. Prints appeared on shirting, and the accessories were signature Marni; functional over-sized backpacks, folio wallets and two-tone heavy shoes. This season's art collaboration is with illustrator and typographer, Katja Schwalenberg, whose layered lino prints of florals and a playful character have been printed on white shirts and tees Photograph: PR
There's a definite blue trend happening, nowhere more so than at Calvin Klein. Every variation of blue from baby to navy appeared in sportswear, leather and tailoring. Bomber jackets and sweatshirt were once again key players, both sartorial shorthand for sports-luxe dressing. The finale section was a series of skyscapes from blue, through sunset to stormy and night printed on T-shirts and the ubiquitous sweatshirt. They had a touch of Magritte about them Photograph: PR
For summer 2014 Prada took us on a dark nostalgic trip to tropical paradises. The colourful set of palm prints and helicopters was given a slightly menacing edge. The men were joined by women in jewel-encrusted dresses. Polo shirts worn over the shirts, plimsolls, and satin bomber jackets continued the 50s vibe (Mrs Prada took her bow in one, if ever the bomber was having a moment it is now.) And the accessories! Hawaiian-print briefcases, very Mad Men on vacation, striped webbed belts and vintage suitcases. Next summer can't come quick enough Photograph: PR
