Hinted at in New York and London, the stripe was one of Milan's leading trends. At Dolce & Gabbana the duo had taken their influence from glamorous holidays in Sicily, drawing inspiration for their bold prints from street-theatre puppets and collectable head-shaped native vases. Beach-umbrella-wide stripes in red and blue sweeping horizontally and vertically across shorts, flared shirts and sundresses brought a fresher feel. A personal favourite (above) combined horizontal and diagonal stripes. At Fendi the walls of the venue were papered in a wide grey stripe. Rossella Jardini at Moschino took us back to the 60s with shrunken miniskirts and dresses and jackets in bold monochrome stripes – inspiration she took from the cult classic film Two for the Road, in which Audrey Hepburn's wardrobe included pieces by Mary Quant and Paco Rabanne.
Photograph: Sipa USA / Rex Features/SUA
Milan was in full bloom: the daisy took centre stage, appearing at Prada (right), Versus and Etro (centre). Miuccia Prada's show took the flower from a single handpainted detail on a dress to a repeat print on tops and coats, giving a romantic touch to the graphic collection. Christopher Kane's design partnership with Donatella Versace for Versus used daisies as a repeat print on skirts and dresses. Giant handpainted peonies were the backdrop of the Etro show – against this, beautiful floral silk kimono prints moved softly down the runway. Marni (left) made the boldest statement, with 70s wallpaper-print flowers in bright orange. Photograph: Sipa USA/REX/Sipa USA/Rex Features
If it involves a shoe, you can be assured a fashion audience – throw in a party and your success is guaranteed. Hogan's collaboration with super-stylist Katie Grand on an accessories capsule collection called Gang, pictured centre – featuring trainers, purses, bags and sunglasses, all in playful rainbow-bright colours – was a huge success. Jimmy Choo's inspiration was “haute gypsy glamour” with a strong romantic edge (we love a designer's collection notes). Key items were the new biker bag, oversized and slouchy, and the python and tassel sandals, left. Meanwhile Giorgio Armani's second season showing his accessories lines, above right, married a gentle pastel palette, tan leather and metallic, producing a desirable collection. Photograph: PR; Jo Jones
The London Olympic legacy continued through to the catwalks of Milan with Sportmax, Pucci and Fendi. It was a great season for Sportmax (above) – the collection included structured silhouettes and pure lines, mixing of fabrics, two-tone stripes, and giant chevrons clashing in green and red against pure white. Cricket-inspired knits were a winner. Pucci's oversized silk bombers gave a a nod to boxing, and at Fendi black and coloured borders framed the clothes, with the edging on dresses, skirts and front panels on shirts reminiscent of line markers on a basketball court, drawing your eye to the skirts and shorts with pannier-like pockets. Photograph: Jo Jones/Observer
Dame Edna Everage is very à la mode for next season. Quirky statement sunnies dominated the delicate profiles of angular-featured models, creating an almost comical cheeriness to the most serious of faces. At Prada, Miuccia followed on from last season's baroque-curl detail with a striking flower frame. Seen in triple colours edging a rectangular frame at Fendi, whose designer Karl Lagerfeld's image is based on a ponytail and a bold black frame. The quirkiest award goes to Missoni – a double-take reassured the audience that they were sunglasses, not pastel swimming goggles.
Top tip: start trawling the flea markets and vintage stores for a one-off find. Photograph: PR; Jo Jones; Rex Features
It's very last season to simply buy a designer's collection and wear it – the order of the day is that now one wears the designer. Michael Roberts in collaboration with One T-Shirt has created a line of T-shirts with the caricatured faces of Tom Ford and Marc Jacobs, along with fashion notoriety: American Vogue's Anna Wintour and Grace Coddington, and the International Herald Tribune's Suzy Menkes (quiff and all), to name but a few. Photograph: 10corsocomo.com/PR
There was a general feeling that a well-tied ponytail was the hair trend of Milan. Joyfully easy for the average woman or man (if you favour long hair) to recreate. There are no hard and fast rules, but there are options. First you have the shiny tied-high version, allowing a definite swing, as seen swaying down the runway at Versus. Secondly there is the low-tied or loosely grabbed number at Sportmax, as seen modelled by Sienna Miller out for a walk in the park. Finally, a personal favourite was the ponytail at Marni that we are naming the Lucinda Chambers, as she has worked this for a few seasons (she is the creative director at Marni and fashion director of British Vogue, so basically a trendsetter in the fashion world). It's simply tied low with a sexy-bed-hair texture... Photograph: Jo Jones/Observer
She's cool and 54 – the Hollywood A-lister is our celebrity of the week. Seen rocking a feather look at Fendi's front row in Milan; also spotted at Roberto Cavalli in a revealing black halterneck dress.
Top tip: For all those film and Sharon Stone fans, you will have the opportunity to see the costumes close up. A collection of famous outfits spanning a century of movie-making, including the dress Stone wore in Basic Instinct, alongside the Little Black Dress worn by Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's, will be on display at the V&A's Hollywood Costume exhibition (from 20 October to 27 January). Photograph: Rex Features
Jil Sander returned, after eight years, to the label she started under her own name. Her designs (right) were both pure and true to her ethos: minimal silhouettes with an airy volume so the back appeared slim, with a bold front. The collection was predominantly white with an injection of rusty iron, midnight blue and a punchy orange described as fireball. A fashion moment came at Bottega Veneta (left), where Tomas Maier created gems of exquisite 40s-style dresses with extraordinary workmanship (if you don't believe in elves you may well do after this collection): 33 precisely tailored pieces and not a trouser in sight. If there are any Bottega Veneta hand-me-downs, please remember me. Another highlight was the Raoul collection: cute summer separates (centre), laser-cut lace pattered shorts in a hazy blue leather, fun prints, detailed embroidery and pretty stitched pleating on tops. Definitely worth investing in a skirt or shorts. Photograph: Sipa USA/PR/Pixelformula/SIPA/Rex Features
Spring/summer's new slant on the tailored trouser suit is that relaxed 70s-inspired ensemble the tunic and kick flare pant. At Gucci this was shown in vibrant colours, ditto at Versus, with matching print. Veronica Etro's take was a soft all-over printed silk trouser set. Think style icon Talitha Getty holidaying in Morocco.
Top tip: keep a lookout at Cos – we are sure they will have a version...
Photograph: Sipa USA / Rex Features/SUA
