The idea of travelling to work on the crowded Central line wearing a Prada aviator helmet fills me with pure joy. Think Amelia Earhart crash-landing in the middle of a 1920s film noir synchronised swimming scene. This season Miuccia Prada took the 20s and 60s as inspiration. Python cocoon coats were mixed with big copper-buttoned drop-waisted coat-dresses interspersed with delicate, shimmering, plastic fish scale, sheer, shift dresses. Raf Simons at Jil Sander mixed couture volume - a glamorous cocoon coat worn with stirrup pants and chunky wedges - with sporty, in the form of the downhill skier (hood and all). Knitwear in colours reminiscent of 50s postcards narrowed the silhouette. Simons had been inspired by Louise Dahl-Wolfe's mid-century images of couture photographed on the ski slopes. I feel a winter snow shoot coming on! Photograph: Jo Jones
This is what we expect from Milan: super luxe, experimental fabrics, beautifully made garments, and uber expensive price tags. Bottega Veneta's models had the feel of Tippi Hedren in The Birds. Neat knee-length skirts and cardigans were accessorised with cream tights and elegant T-bar heels, but the favourites were undoubtedly the lace dresses, both real and printed, using trompe l'oeil lace stencils. We can but dream (or bouffant our hair). At Marni, the look followed the ladylike silhouette, with an elegance captured in Consuelo Castiglioni's simple shapes. Skirts hit below the knee, trousers were elongated but remained elegant. Worn with high platform shoes, the prints were graphic and the embellishment was restrained. At Emilio Pucci Peter Dundas also took a turn to the more temperate, steering clear of the hippie look of old. Bodycon corseted dresses had a ladylike twist with a covered arm, a lace collar or bow Photograph: PR/Jo Jones
Walking into the Gucci showroom for a re-see of the fall 2011 collection I was hit by wall-to-wall colour, reminiscent of a shelf full of colourful bonbons in an old fashioned sweet shop. Designer Frida Giannini mixed colours that shouldn't work together, but did. This season, Gucci's 90th anniversary, Giannini was inspired by 70s glam. We saw silk pussy-bow blouses, super-luxe fabrics like the finest napper leather in a white wide-leg trouser, and plenty of bright coloured fur, topped off with a fedora Photograph: Jo Jones/PR
There was more than a nod to the 70s this season in Milan and what better place to start than with the shoes. Tamara Mellon of Jimmy Choo had taken icons such as Catherine Deneuve, Veruschka and Charlotte Rampling's sense of style as inspiration for the fall collection. Favourite styles included the 'Charlotte', a decadent evening shoe with a hard edge inspired by the pages of late seventies French Vogue and the 'Veruschka', a boot with a seventies hippy vibe with artisan detailing, coloured feathers and equestrian gold hardware Photograph: Jo Jones
There were mixed feelings about the continuing trend for showing backstage before the show on front-of-house video screens at Dolce & Gabbana. Live-streaming is now a regular fixture but the audience debated whether they really wanted a sneak preview of the collection before the show. Does it spoil the excitement of the unknown or is it an exciting teaser of the impressive 83 exit collection that followed? Model of the moment Arizona Muse opened the show as a 'boy' in a sharp-cut masculine double-breasted jacquard jacket and cropped trousers with a pork pie hat. The show then alternated between 'boys' and 'girls' wearing the sexy corset dresses that are Dolce and Gabbana's signature, blouses tucked into jewelled skirts with plenty of lace. Star and musical note patterns adorned the dresses while the 'boys' oversized jackets became progressively more bejeweled with scatterings of sequins or star badges. The workmanship was breathtaking Photograph: Jo Jones
We love to see a trend working, none more so than colour. The fashion pack have embraced it with open arms. It was a bright day indeed when, through the gloom of Milan's industrial backdrop, in a sea of beige, black and grey, Anna Dello Russo - (ADR to those that know) emerged in a fluoro yellow pant suit Photograph: Jo Jones
This season Angela Missoni's collection floated down the runway. The irresistible pastel colour palette was surprisingly refreshing after collections of solid bold colours. The oversized jumpers, maxi dresses and pleated trousers worn under masculine coats in colours like pistachio and plaid ice cream shades, had a modern edge. Lighter pieces such as the skirts edged in feathers were given a tough look when worn with full-length python coats and matching boots. The show ended on a high with a standing ovation as Angela Missoni took a bow with her 90-year-old father Ottavio Photograph: PR
This season Milan's front row was awash with music's A-listers. Kelly Rowland was spotted front row at Cavalli taking pictures on her iPhone and later she posed for me on a Milanese street corner. Duran Duran were in force at Versace and 'The Queen of Rock 'n' Roll' Tina Turner made her entrance to a room full of applause at Emporio Armani Photograph: Jo Jones
Bright lips were a major makeup trend for spring/summer and you will be pleased to know they are still around for winter, but, rather than hot coral and flaming red, for autumn they take a deeper, more sensual tone. The prize for the perfect shade and the most glossy has to go to Gucci. A little lip tip - if wearing gloss on a windy day wear your hair up to avoid a hair-meets-lip sticky moment! Photograph: PR
Feathers were everywhere; edging evening dresses, woven into knits or simply creating voluminous pieces like a bright feather shrug, coat or cocktail dress. D&G's Stefano and Domenico created fun tutus in every colour for their finale, worn with a logo tee with the duo's message 'Talking About You' emblazoned across. Donatella Versace said, "and for night I wanted to play with feathers," and she did just that with a canary-yellow cocktail dress and other floor-length numbers edged in marabou. Angela Missoni showed stunning floor-sweeping dresses, which intertwined soft pastel feathers among the knitted yarns Photograph: PR/Jo Jones
