Born and bred up the coast in Palm Beach, Madeleine Kirsh moved to Miami 20 years ago. Formerly an interior designer, today she runs C Madeleine’s Vintage in North Miami Beach, which stocks designer vintage women’s and men’s apparel and accessories from the 30s through to the 90s.
Say hello
They call Miami “magic city” for a reason. Yes, everything and everyone is glamorous but it’s also very friendly: dog friendly, gay friendly … everyone’s welcome here.
Soak up the architecture
Obviously the iconic picture in everyone’s head is the art deco splendour along Ocean Drive, and we have been battling to restore as much as possible to the way it was before the second world war. Many of the buildings between Ocean Drive and Tenth Ave have now been renovated to showcase their original beauty. The facades have been restored, the pastel colours repainted. I recommend you take a guided tour run by the Welcome Foundation and learn some more at the Wolfsonian FIU. And every January there’s the annual Art Deco Weekend to celebrate it all with parties, exhibitions and lectures.
Actually, my favourite building is the old Versace Mansion, Casa Casauarina, on South Beach, which was also built in the 30s.
Discover the neighbourhoods
The city has a number of distinct and diverse districts and you should explore them all if you have time. Little Havana was founded in the 60s when people fled Cuba. It is full of little stores, cafes and shops selling cigars and, of course, restaurants serving Cuban cuisine. Every March the community holds a one-day fiesta of Latin American culture called Calle Ocho there. And there’s a Little Haiti, too. The new hipster spots in the city are Midtown and Wynwood, which is full of artists, bars and clubs.
Let’s say you want to go upscale. Go a few blocks and you’re in the design district, which is full of very smart, high-end galleries, smart restaurants and beautiful boutiques, while Downtown is the business hub of Miami with lots of skyscrapers and arenas. A little south, Coral Gables and Coconut Grove are two of my favourite spots: some of the city’s older real estate is here. There’s a distinct Spanish flair, and some wonderful old buildings including the famous Biltmore Hotel. Beyond North Beach, Sunny Isles Beach is now called “little Moscow” for the very simple reason that it’s home to many Russian exiles.
Brunch in style
For brunch I recommend Zuma in the Essex Hotel. It’s pricey, but the people watching is terrific and the views are equally spectacular. Another great brunch option is Nikki Beach Club.
Join the art crowd
Miami hasn’t always been known for its cultural life, but it is a very creative place today. There’s a thriving art, design, fashion and music scene. We have the new Perez Museum, renamed from the Miami Art Museum when it relocated Downtown in 2013. It’s full of contemporary art galleries and the scene for art in general is very strong here now. My favourite is the Rubell Family Museum, which is brimming with fantastic new art. It’s located in an old Drug Enforcement Agency warehouse in Wynwood, an arts district full of buzzing galleries. Another great gallery is the Bass Museum in the old 30s Beach Library, though it’s currently closed for renovation.
Years ago, you’d wonder what there was to do round here but today there’s something different going on every single day of the year. We’re absolutely spoiled for choice. There are also truly world-class events taking place like Art Basel in early December, the contemporary art fair that takes over Miami Beach – there are endless exhibitions and installations to see along with launches, parties and all sorts.
Shop for one-offs
Shopping is limitless in Miami – think of a brand or a luxury store and it’s here. Bal Harbour is an open-air mall full of luxury shops in a smart district, and Lincoln Road is a pedestrianised street with hundreds of different boutiques, big name brands and cafes. I like The Webster, a multi-brand boutique based in an old deco hotel – it is the place to go for established designers and up and coming names.
Hit the beach
We love the beach. If you want to get some sun and people watch, then look no further than South Beach. It’s got it all, although there’s lots more to do than just sunbathe. There’s volleyball, kitesurfing, paddleboarding – there’s even pet parks with pet exercise gear. And we have the best lifeguard towers and the cutest lifeguards anywhere.
Sample the restaurant scene
My favourite restaurant is Michael’s in the Design District. I’m never disappointed. Mandolin Aegean Bistro does the best Greek food I’ve ever tasted. We also have the best Asian fusion and sushi round the corner from my shop at the Sushi House. Cuban-style places abound and everyone has a favourite spot. The original is Versailles in Little Havana, which is always full of locals. In fact, it’s where the Chamber of Commerce takes visiting dignitaries from all around the world. It’s not fancy but the food is great.
Another institution is Joe’s Stone Crab, which has been here for about a hundred years. It’s only open October-May but people come from all over for its crab dishes and key lime pie.
You must, must go to El Tucan, a retro, 40s-style Cuban joint. You can spend an entire evening there – the food is exceptional, the house band is great and they’re dancing in the aisles.
If you’re a foodie you want to be here for the South Beach wine and food festival in February. It’s a huge, four-day festival where every kind of food imaginable is available. Dance fans will love Ultra, and Miami Music Week in March – an enormous outdoor music event that pulls in DJs from all over the world.
Raise a glass
My son recommends World Of Beer in Midtown, which is full of great craft brews. For cocktails the younger crowd heads for Juvia – a roof bar on top of a designer parking garage. I prefer “olde worlde” and have a place in my heart for The Forge because it has an incredible selection of wines you can sample by the glass. My tab runs off the scale there. If you want romance, cocktails and dinner with boats going by, you want The Standard Hotel.
Find the party
Miami is all about having a good time. We love to party – but where to go? My all-time favourite spot is LIV at the Fontainebleau Hotel and its sister club Story, which both pull in superstar DJs like Dave Guetta and Tiesto. If you want to see or be seen, they are the places to go. FIFTY up in the Viceroy Hotel offers an incredible view of the city as well as great music.
The White Party is a huge gay celebration that lasts for a week in November. Everywhere hosts a party themed around the colour white; the more flamboyant the better.
Miami Fashion Week is also now massive. There are so many designers, models, aspiring models and agencies based here. Bruce Webber, who is just about the most famous fashion photographer alive, lives here. He loves Miami because it’s the best backdrop in the world.
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