When Shuko Oda first opened Koya in London’s Soho, rumours spread around the city like hot butter. Firstly, Shuko had created some of the finest udon noodles anyone could eat without jumping on a plane to Japan. Secondly, these noodles were kneaded by foot! It transpired that both of these rumours were true, and suddenly everyone flocked to worship at the altar of this modestly brilliant place.
This dish, kama tama (or raw egg and soy udon noodles), is on the breakfast menu at Koya, although in my opinion it makes for a lovely quick lunch too. The recipe might only have three key ingredients, but it is as sophisticated as it is simple to make.
The best udon noodles to use here are the plump, partially cooked “straight to wok” noodles. If you use dried noodles, you’ll only need 200g and a tablespoon of additional water to loosen when you mix them with the egg yolks and soy.
Serves 2
“straight to wok” udon noodles 300g
egg yolks 2 medium
soy sauce 1 tbsp
nori 1 sheet, shredded (optional)
Bring a large pan of water to a rolling boil, then drop in the noodles and cook until they are al dente. This should take about 3 minutes for the “straight to wok” type or 4-7 minutes if you are using the dried wholewheat variety.
Meanwhile, in a large mixing bowl, mix together the egg yolks and soy sauce. When the noodles are cooked, drain well and immediately add to the egg mixture, mixing really well so they are coated in the sauce. Divide the noodles between two bowls, and sprinkle with shredded nori if you like. Serve immediately.
From East by Meera Sodha (Penguin, £20)
