Arguably the definitive Manhattan grill room, the movie-set ready Bull & Bear at the storied Waldorf Astoria New York, is also now wide awake and in the finest of fettles at the pinnacle of uptown Bangkok.
The never less than lavish original 125-year-old ‘Big Apple’ Waldorf Astoria is renowned for its gossip column-fodder dinner parties and galas at the centre of sundry intrigues and conspiracies involving the rich, famous and powerful. In 2006, it became the flagship of the Hilton portfolio with a signature Bull & Bear now steaking it to the limit at selected Waldorf Astoria Collection hotels around the world.
The three-month-old Bull & Bear Bangkok could conceivably garner similarly decadent laurels Big Mango-style. It’s a stunning space in a spectacular setting serviced by sinfully delicious grill cuisine and beverages and supported by a colourful cast of characters. It does indeed make one feel, like the seminal song says, king (or queen) of the hill.
But this is not an unsolicited intrusion of American imperialism. Quite as dominant in the décor as the roughly quarter-size bronze replica Bull & Bear statue from Wall Street poised in the bar area is the kaleidoscopic mudmee panelling of the dining room ceiling which puts one in mind of HM Queen Sirikit’s majestic championing of such fabrics.
Moreover, furniture and millwork detailing features feather and snakeskin reliefs channelling Garuda and Naga, Thai mythical creatures as constantly jostling for dominance as stock market manipulators.
Indeed, the gorgeous design of all top three (55-57) stratospheric floors of the hotel, also including The Loft and The Champagne Bar, reachable from ground zero in under a minute by uber-express lift, is spearheaded by the Bangkok studio of leading-edge New York design firm, AvroKO.
The spaces are interconnected via a grandiose staircase, featuring an intricate balustrade adorned with gold leaf, that encounters an exquisite mythical Thai and Western wall-mounted jewellery installation intricately sculpted from hammered brass, gold and wood.
Moreover, the a la carte menu, a meating of minds between irrepressibly innovative yet impeccably classical Aussie Chef de Cuisine Patrick Morris, accomplished Executive Chef Alessandro Santi, and original New Yorker F&B Manager Yasmin Mansour, isn’t shy of adopting local produce or a dash of Sri Racha sauce.
Cut to the bear bones, Bull & Bear is essentially a plush, dramatically detailed 80-seater restaurant specialising in grilled meats and seafood. The space comprises a small bar, private dining room, main dining room and open kitchen. A live raw bar sits alongside a custom-made salamander grill designed for smoking, slow roasting, baking and grilling, the culinary arts the restaurant specialises in.
The colour palate features shades of ebony, dove grey, bronze and deep red, accentuated with brass detailing. Artful lighting sculpts the space shining and reflecting on different surfaces.
A massive central chandelier, almost reaching to the backs of the art deco saddle-leather sofas and chairs and walnut table tops, features animalistic glass feathers redolent of flapper girl tiaras and so on-point with the prohibition 20s when the New York progenitor became iconic. Reflective zinc pillars and wooden floor complete an original Waldorf narrative unique to Bangkok.
Horny hardcore American jazz, from Coltrane to Davis, somehow feels live.
The breads - dark rye buns and white bread rolls, smoked house-churned butter - sound a positive starting note.
Standout appetizers include cold-Smoked Burrata (B450) with balsamic-infused dried and peeled cherry tomatoes and contrasting ciabatta crisp. Awesome.
Tiger Prawn Cocktail (B580) is much meatier than usual, thanks to using U9 (nine shrimp/kg) produce, subtly steamed and cut into buttery segments. A dash of Sri Racha lends the creamy cocktail sauce Thai zip.
Jumbo Crab Cake (B800) - Alaskan King Crab seasoned with chilli, mustard and mayo, smoked, roasted, rolled in breadcrumbs and pan-seared - is another twisted classic. Served over tangy smoked remoulade with mustard, peppers, capers and celeriac, it’s superb.
Jamon Joeselito Gran Reserva (B850) is also a revelation. Who knew cured pork could be so tender? Hand-carved to avoid heating the meat so as to deplete the tasty fat, and complemented with steamed asparagus, poached egg and manchegro, it’s unsurpassable.
Among the soups, Corn Chowder (B350) (clams are deemed to cliché) brings to mind the confluence of the Negro and Solimões rivers, except in shades of algae green and ivory cream. Cream and saffron corn soup is poured over smoked corn, cilantro and jalapeno espuma and chewy corn ears. Result: instant favourite.
Steaks, including a spicy flim-flam Thai number, lead the mains procession. Special festive season cuts include 250 grams 2GR Wagyu Tenderloin, marbling 9, “straight-up” char-grilled, with a silky-soft portobello mushroom on top and Hershey kisses of truffle mash on the platter is irreproachably delicious. The buttery cut is from blustering Aussie mining magnate Gina Rinehart’s cattle venture.
Bull and Bear condiment sets offer three salts and four homemade mustards, one of which is smoked and blended with Mitcher’s Bourbon. Another Dijon base is mixed with port wine, orange and truffle. An albino other is fresh horseradish based.
No wonder the world has such an appetite for beef steak!
Sides are a realm unto themselves. The most wicked is Truffle Mac & Cheese (B220); a brie and truffled-bechamel macaroni sandwich au gratin with smoked gruyere. Simple braised red cabbage with bacon is a perfect complement.
Among the sauces, peppercorn features beef stock, red wine, green and black peppercorns, cognac and cream. Say no more. Other choices range Michter’s & Mustard Jus to Café De Paris butter blended with Sri Ratcha.
Go for the Full Monty adding ½ Canadian Lobster (B650), Grilled Shrimp (B400), or Pan-Fried Foie Gras (B600).
Or how about Wagyu Shortrib Burger (B720) with homemade condiments and truffle mayo?
Or simply surf with Grilled Tiger Prawns (B880), Blackened Australian Barramundi (B850), Hokkaido Scallop (B1,100), or Lobster Tagliatelle (B800).
A chilled seafood tower of Canadian Lobster, Bodeuse no4, Poached Jumbo Prawns, Smoked Clam, Alaskan Crab Legs, Hokkaido Scallop is (B5,000). Or cap it with Kristal Gold Caviar (B6,800).
Moreover, Bull & Bear is an exceptional joint for oysters, with Gillardeau No. 3, Royale No. 2 and Bodeuse No. 4 shucked on the spot.
Conclude with Apple Crumble (B320)/vanilla bean ice cream; New York Cheesecake (B320)/blackberry sorbet; S’ mores - popcorn ice cream (B320)/charred marshmallow; Michter’s Bourbon Pannacotta (B350)/caramelised white chocolate ganache, spiced oranges and pecan crumble. Or a scoop of gelato or sorbet.
Bar Manager Michele Montauti and team mix everything including five signature cocktails ranging Waldorf Smoked Old Fashioned (B420)/Mitcher’s American Bourbon, maple honey, to Spicy Forest (B420)/Kraken rum, pepper-smoked syrup, lemon juice, ginger beer.
As for New Year, the restaurant-bar complex will enjoy prime views of the fireworks at CentralWorld and Wat Arun, among others.
BULL & BEAR
Waldorf Astoria Bangkok. 151 Ratchadamri Road. Tel. 02 846 8888. Email: [email protected].
