A few years after I’d left my job in television to dedicate myself to growing and writing about food, my dad handed me an envelope of seeds from his favourite vegetable from home – a Mauritian cucumber. It was something of a gauntlet thrown down as my parents were still making sense of the new path I was doggedly pursuing.
It took three seasons for those seeds to germinate and take root under my care, and it was a magical day when I was able to present my dad with a basket full of cucumbers that had grown from the soil of my East Sussex garden. And this cucumber – light skin, crisp flesh and pleasantly sweet – was so special that it became a character in my book, Unearthed, which charts my journey into food growing, woven through with stories of my family and of Mauritius. Growing the food of my heritage, the food that our family was brought up on, has been one of the most meaningful experiences of my life.
This year, I sowed my Mauritian cucumber seeds in late April. After the unsettled spring I was tentative, but they’re growing steadily, readying themselves to flower and set fruit. Cucumbers are fast-growing, heat-loving plants – and it’s not too late to sow their seeds. In fact, I’m going to sow a few more in the coming weeks in the hope of an extended cropping season. The new plants will replace the first round as they run out of steam.
I’ve grown Mauritian cucumbers inside my greenhouse and out in the veg patch, and they thrive in both. When choosing a variety of cucumber, pick a type that’s been bred to suit the space you’re planning to grow in, whether that’s under cover (the greenhouse type) or into the ground (the outdoor or ridge type).
Cucumbers can be left to scramble across the earth, but fruit left on damp ground can be susceptible to rotting. I find that they are easier to keep healthy and to harvest if they are encouraged to climb a trellis. Plus, cucumber plants are ideal for growing in a small space as they can be coaxed upwards, towards the sun. As with many fruiting plants, they do need a fair amount of water to do well and nutrient-rich soil or compost to draw nourishment from.
A happy cucumber plant will grow vigorously and crop generously. As well as slicing them into fresh summer salads or submerging them into sparkling water with a dash of elderflower cordial, I also love to capture their crunch by pickling them in vinegar flavoured with dill fronds, or serve them beaten into submission then dressed with black vinegar and chilli oil.
