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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Katie Forster

Matthew Williamson: ‘It’s a shame I can’t try a dress on to check the fit’

Matthew Williamson with folded arms, grinning
Matthew Williamson in his London store: ‘I’m quite shy.’ Photograph: Suki Dhanda for the Observer

It’s often supposed that a fashion designer is extravagant, flamboyant and extrovert. You have to present a certain energy. I’m quite shy, so it’s a skill I’ve picked up. Over time I’ve become capable of engaging and talking about my work.

The word “boho” is overused. To me, bohemian means a leftfield woman, with her own nonconformist agenda. But it has been shortened to boho, which just refers to a peasant dress or a girl in beads. I hang on to the real meaning of the word.

I crave experiencing other cultures and countries. I’ve never really been away for months on end, but I’d love to spend three months in Bali. I’d do nothing, just absorb the atmosphere. It’s exotic, clean and beautiful, and there’s something very serene about the people there.

I’ve been on more planes than I can bear to think about and I loathe the journey from my door to the final destination. But no pain, no gain.

People from overseas say: “Oh, it’s so crazy, so eccentric, the way the British dress.” I get the idea that we’re a bit more haphazard and we like to mix and match. I love the way Europeans dress, and they largely have the luxury of heat. It’s easy to run to your black jacket and grey scarf when it’s cold, but I’m a strong believer in mood-enhancing colour. Why wouldn’t you want to be the girl in the bright pink dress?

A few years ago there was a lot of my stuff copied in a certain high street store and I was whingeing about it. My business partner Joseph said: “You’d be whingeing if they didn’t copy you.” It’s actually quite flattering.

It’s hard to maintain a meaningful friendship. I’ve curated an inner circle that I can count on one hand.

Sienna Miller is a true friend: she’s got the most lovely way about her. About 10 years ago, I saw a picture of her the size of a stamp in a magazine and pinned it behind my desk because I liked the colour of her jacket. My sales director at the time knew her so we met for tea.

I can handle insects, spiders, lizards, the lot. It’s just rats I can’t do. I’m not wild about cats either. I think one jumped on me when I was a kid and it stuck with me that he wasn’t my friend.

Male and female designers work differently. A woman is the embodiment of her brand, whereas a male womenswear designer is somewhat detached. It’s a shame that you can’t try a dress on to check the fit, but it frees you from insecurities that you may have as a woman.

If you want to live off lettuce and pulses, fine by me. My body is such that I’m lucky, I can eat what I want. I’m northern and quite straightforward when it comes to food.

Students I’ve spoken to are often so unsure of what they’re doing. You need to get to that point where you’re like: “I’ve nailed it, I’m clear, and now I’m ready.” You’ve got to really believe that it’s good. It’s a hard discipline, to knock out stuff you don’t love.

Matthew Williamson has collaborated with Balthazar restaurant in Covent Garden to create an afternoon tea inspired by his S/S 2015 collection (balthazarlondon.com)

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