Master chef ... restaurateur Michel Roux Jr is both wise critic and knowledgable mentor. Photograph: PR
Over the course of its lifetime, BBC's cookery contest Masterchef has endured countless relaunches. It began in 1990 and, presented by the ooober-annoying Lloyd Grossman, it usually featured shire-dwelling socialites who thought their fussy dinner party 'cuisine' a cut above the rest. This version lasted until 2001 when it was cancelled, but the show was resurrected and revamped in 2005 as Masterchef Goes Large.
New presenters Gregg Wallace and John Torode seemed to revel in unsettling the gifted amateur contestants. That said, the programme still showcased posh girls from Surrey who, on winning, would sell their ponies to invest in a chi-chi gastro cafe. Perhaps that had some bearing on the producers' decision to relaunch the show for a second time.
That embarrassing 'Goes Large' soubriquet was dropped and instead the show became Masterchef: The Professionals. Contestants were now newly qualified, novice professional chefs, although it must be said that some of them seem to have spent their time at catering college creating unconscionable crimes against spices (scallops and ginger, anyone?)
This is the incarnation that we will see on our screens tonight, and a good thing too. John Torode may have recently defected to Saturday Kitchen but the overly avuncular Gregg Wallace has stayed, his new role to repeat word-for-word any utterance from replacement co-host Michel Roux Jr.
Fortunately, Michel Roux Jr is the best thing ever to happen to Masterchef. This skilled but skeletal restaurateur is both wise critic and knowledgable mentor. Any harsh comments he serves are richly deserved, whereas praise must be earned. He is not prone to hyperbole: coming from MRJ, "very nice" is a gushing tribute.
Trials involve newbie chefs inventing two dishes from a group of sometimes gastronomically discordant, pre-selected ingredients, and then preparing a classic recipe. Michel Roux is bit like Mr Kesuke Miyagi in The Karate Kid. He loves it when the hopefuls are brave enough to experiment but sad when they make obvious mistakes, like serving raw lamb.
The contestants wait fearfully, as the result will change their lives; much more so than becoming the doyenne of Esher's supper-party carousel, since winners are judged worthy of a star by genuine Michelin judges.
What a pity it took seventeen years to become essential teatime viewing.
