You may have read, or more likely heard, all kinds of things about Marfa, Texas. That it's super cool. That it's a foodie destination. That it's right next to Big Bend. That it's completely overrated.
If you've been to the fabled West Texas town, you undoubtedly have your own opinion about it, perhaps a strong one.
If you haven't been, maybe you're thinking of heading there one day soon. Plenty has been written on the subject, much of it pretty puffed up. I'm here to give you Marfa, unvarnished.
First, a few things to get out of the way: The fake Prada store is not in Marfa. It's 26 miles out of town, to the northwest, but ART (with a capital A-R-T) and artifice are everywhere in town. Even the tumbleweeds look curated. Most people you see on the street (and in the galleries and boutiques and dining rooms) look wealthy. Bearded hipster dads and tattooed moms push babies in expensive strollers. Cool-looking older couples (she with beautiful long gray hair, he with fabulous turquoise jewelry) sip espresso in front of the new boutique hotel, the Saint George. Everyone over 60 has exquisite taste.
As far as food goes, not terrible is generally the best you can hope for. As far as sleep goes, there's a train that barrels through the center of town every few hours all night long every night _ blaring its horn!
Does it sound like I hated Marfa? I didn't. I loved it. Friends told me to stay a day and a half, two days max. After spending three days and three nights, I still felt there was plenty more to see and do.
