Sitting on the edge of the jetty in Corfu, legs dangling, my three-year-old daughter and I crumble sesame seed breadsticks into the Ionian Sea below.
Dazzlingly clear, it reflects the blue sky above and sparkles with the late morning sunshine.
After a minute or two the empty patch of ocean is suddenly alive with fish, quicksilver grey and dainty black, leaping over each other and out of the water to steal the best pieces.
I have a flash of anxiety about whether you’re supposed to feed fish gluten, let alone sesame. My fingers start reaching for my phone to type “can fish have allergies”. I stop, look at my daughter: she is entranced, delighted. You are an idiot, I tell myself. You are on holiday. I consider throwing my phone into the water.
If my brain still hadn’t quite caught up with the fact that it could switch off, it was not the fault of our beautiful hotel, the five-star MarBella, Mar-Bella Collection, Corfu. It was our first all-inclusive trip, and I had some reservations — unfair thoughts of school canteen buffets among them — but from the moment we were picked up at the airport by the hotel’s driver, who navigated the 20-minute drive along the coast with such practised ease that I nearly fell asleep alongside my daughter, my worries faded and I felt myself relax (a bit). Somebody else had taken charge.
That feeling of being looked after lasted for our whole stay. On arrival, as our luggage was unpacked from the car and whisked up to our room, the kind and charming reception staff sat us down in the Belvedere bar, with sweeping views of the sea, presented my husband and I with a deliciously Aperol-heavy signature cocktail, gave my daughter a juice-only version and asked her which flavour of ice cream she’d like. She, at least, had no trouble believing she was on holiday.
Founded five decades ago, MarBella offers family-friendly, affordable luxury. It’s now the eldest sibling in the Mar-Bella Collection, a small group of chic resorts, with three on Corfu itself and one in mainland Greece. The 362 rooms and suites are arranged over a hill in the village of Agios Ioannis Peristeron, in the south-east of the island, rambling down from olive groves to the sea through lush, beautiful gardens. It takes a while to get your bearings, but each path is lined with fragrant rosemary, lavender and verbena and there’s a spectacular view around almost every corner, so getting lost is hardly a chore.
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The resort has a slightly bewildering array of room categories, ranging from standard doubles up to suites sleeping six, with private jacuzzis or pools. Ours, a bungalow junior suite with panoramic sea view, was a huge space, all cool tiled floors and chic neutral tones, opening out onto an enormous double balcony where our daughter could watch the finches dart in and out in the morning and we could sit and watch the sunset after she’d gone to sleep. Welcoming touches included a bottle of wine for us, a cuddly MarBella whale toy in our daughter’s cot and — to her absolute joy — a toddler-sized bathrobe.
With three pools, a gym, a spa, five restaurants and six bars, the hotel is a village in its own right, so if it’s pure relaxation you’re after, there’s no need to leave. All meals and drinks are included and the cocktails are made to order, with proper spirits in proper measures. Plus there’s unlimited ice cream, for kids and adults alike.
The main buffet restaurant, La Terrazza, was far from the school canteen of my fears, offering Corfiot specialities and local lamb alongside classics including slow-cooked pork belly, all kinds of delicious fresh salads and a pudding bar of dreams. A la carte options — you can dine at these rather than the buffet at no extra cost three times in a seven-day stay — include Celeste, an elegant French-style brasserie, and the Deck Bar & Grill on the beach, for fresh seafood and pasta.
We fell into a simple routine, starting the day with breakfast at Mediterranean restaurant Kuzina, a smaller, more laidback option than the main restaurant. We sat on the terrace, next to one of the ancient olive trees, and helped ourselves to everything from eggs benedict and pastries to spanakopita and luxuriously thick yoghurt with homemade fruit compote. Then we meandered up to the Anemelia waterpark at the top of the hill. First thing in the morning, in April, we had it almost to ourselves — our daughter loved the gentler slides and we loved swimming out to the edge of the infinity pool for a moment of calm before ordering a cocktail from the poolside bar.
Once the waterpark began to get busier we’d head to our favourite spot, the private beach, where our daughter played in the sand, made friends with the resident cat and fed the fish with those smuggled buffet breadsticks while we enjoyed gazing out over the Ionian Sea to the mainland. Snacks — pizza, souvlaki, fresh fruit — were available from the bar and, when you began to tire of your sun lounger, you could stroll along the beach and hire a canoe or pedalo for half an hour; again, all included.
If the thought of doing nothing makes you feel anything but relaxed, there’s yoga, tennis and snorkelling, or for a dose of culture, the hotel can arrange a boat trip to Corfu Town, where you can explore its cobbled streets and ancient beauty. A creche and babysitting service are available for younger children, while older ones can spend the day at the kids’ club before heading to the evening disco – face paint optional but encouraged.
Chic rooms, gorgeous grounds, dozens of activities, the most perfectly blue sea and the chance to turn off the logistics and catering side of your brain – MarBella is an ideal destination for families in need of a break. And did I mention the unlimited ice cream?
Getting there
British Airways Holidays offers seven nights at the 5-star MarBella, Mar-Bella Collection All Inclusive, from £1239pp + €52.50pp environmental fee (payable locally) based on two adults sharing, travelling on selected dates between 1 October - 31 October 2025 inclusive. Includes economy (Euro Traveller) return flights from London Gatwick Airport, one checked bag at 23 kgper person and accommodation on all-inclusive board basis. Book by 13 July 2025. britishairways.com
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