June 23--Conspicuously absent from the list of participants in this year's Taste of Chicago (running July 8-12 in Grant Park) is Manny's Cafeteria and Delicatessen, which for several years has produced one of Taste's most iconic dishes, the barbecued turkey leg.
A massive amount of protein smothered in a tangy tomato-based barbecue sauce, the turkey leg has been one of Taste's most popular items for more than 30 years.
The prospect of going without is unsettling, but fear not: Miller's Pub, a first-time Taste participant, is proudly shouldering the hot, sticky burden.
Why no Manny's? "We're doing some major remodeling," said owner Ken Raskin, "and the design took much, much longer than anticipated. When it was time to commit to Taste [the deadline was months ago], I couldn't be sure whether my kitchen would be able to handle the extra volume. So we decided to take a year off."
The barbecued turkey leg made its first appearance at Taste of Chicago in 1981, when Tim McGivern, at the time the owner of Great Godfrey Daniels in Skokie, introduced the item, and an annual legend was born.
Great Godfrey Daniels closed in late 1996, but McGivern nevertheless was back at Taste the following year with the turkey leg, partnering with Helen's Restaurant. When Helen's closed following the 2009 Taste of Chicago, McGivern partnered with Manny's in 2010 and 2011.
Citing health problems related to knee and back surgery, McGivern stepped away from Taste in 2012 and 2013. But by 2014, the turkey legs were back, under the Manny's banner.
Miller's Pub will be the turkey-leg vendor this year, but McGivern, now 65, will consult, as he did with Manny's. "It's still his equipment being used," said Raskin, "and still the same supplier. It shouldn't be anything but a smooth transition."
Whew.
Phil Vettel is a Tribune critic.
pvettel@tribpub.com
