Hit Winnipeg from May to September and you can easily mix a blast of big-city culture with great escapes in the region’s pine-covered hills and freshwater lakes …
by Rupert Parker
Days 1 and 2: Winnipeg
Restaurants and food stalls in The Forks
Start with breakfast at The Forks, a downtown green space where the Assiniboine and Red rivers meet. For 6,000 years, this place has been sacred for Indigenous peoples and now two former railroad properties, the Market Building and Johnston Terminal, are crammed with multicultural food stalls, restaurants and stores featuring locally made goods. Caffeinate at the very stylish Fools & Horses and eat at Kyu Grill, famous for its heroshima grilled-skewer sandwiches served with delicious Japanese sauces and toppings. Or try Red Ember Common, where you can eat mouthwatering pizzas straight from the stone oven at the stylish bar.
Spend the morning at the Canadian Museum for Human Rights nearby. You can’t miss its towering structure of glass, stone, concrete and steel, soaring into a single pinnacle. The museum’s 10 core galleries, spread over five floors, uses diverse stories from Canada and the rest of the world to inform visitors about human rights issues. Climb to the top of the museum tower for fine city views, and enjoy lunch in its excellent restaurant, ERA Bistro.
In the afternoon, cross the Red River to St Boniface, home to Canada’s oldest French community outside Québec. Follow the Taché Promenade, which takes you past the ruined facade of the 1906 St Boniface Basilica, partially destroyed by fire in 1968. Next door, in a 19th-century convent, formerly run by the Grey Sisters, is the fascinating La Musée de Saint-Boniface Museum, dedicated to the Métis – descendants of First Nations people and settlers – and the francophone communities of Manitoba.
In the evening, get your music hit at the West End Cultural Centre. A former church on Ellice Avenue near the University of Winnipeg, it has a great buzz – its roots are in Winnipeg’s folk music scene but now all types of bands play there.
Replica of the ship Nonsuch at the Manitoba Museum in Winnipeg - in 1668 it was the first ship to sail from England to Hudson Bay to trade furs.
Start your second day at the Manitoba Museum which focuses on human and natural heritage. Vast dioramas depict the province’s landscapes, but it also has a state-of-the-art planetarium, with a stunning simulation of the northern lights. The highlight is probably a full-scale replica of the Nonsuch, which, in 1668, was the first ship to arrive in Hudson Bay from England, to trade for furs.
Unlike other North American cities, Winnipeg’s historic centre has survived. The Exchange District spans 20 blocks and contains a unique collection of 150 heritage buildings, including warehouses, offices, and early skyscrapers, all showing the influence of Chicago architecture. It’s no accident that Hollywood comes here to shoot its 1920s gangster movies, but the area is also home to cool coffee houses, bars and restaurants, ideal for lunch or dinner. Try Clementine cafe for all-day plates of Turkish eggs, Mexican chilaquiles or smoked Arctic char (salmon-like fish).
Afterwards, take a trip to the recently revamped Assiniboine Park Zoo. It houses over 200 animals, and a steamy palm house. The “Journey to Churchill” exhibit showcases rescued polar bears, that were all orphaned or injured, basking in a vast enclosure. Study them on the surface, then go into glass tunnels underneath the pools to watch their balletic diving and swimming.
In the evening, check out the Park Theatre on Osborne Street for great up-and-coming music, comedy and theatre acts from Winnipeg and beyond.
Days 3 and 4: Whiteshell provincial park
Lakeside camping in Whiteshell provincial park
Escape the big city by driving 70 miles east to the pine-covered rock outcrops of Whiteshell provincial park and its 13 freshwater lakes. Make the small resort of Falcon Trails, with its handcrafted lakefront cabins and private hot tubs, your base for a few days. Fish from the dock or explore the many hiking trails, the longest being the 37-mile Mantario Trail. Jump into a canoe, feeling like a fur trapper, and paddle from Caddy Lake along the Whiteshell River to Lone Island Lake.
Days 5 and 6: Riding Mountain national park
Plains bison in Riding Mountain national park
North-west of Winnipeg, Riding Mountain national park is Manitoba’s only accessible national park – it covers 3,000 sq km (1,100 sq miles) of wilderness, and contrasts strongly with the surrounding prairies. Black bear, elk, moose, and lynx all call the park home, as well as 30 plains bison. For a unique backwoods experience, rent an oTENTik – a cross between a tent and an A-frame cabin – at Wasagaming Campground. Set out on foot or by bicycle to spot wildlife on the lakes and in the forests. In the evening, enjoy a barbecue on the front deck and tell stories of your animal encounters around the fire pit.
Day 7: Winnipeg
Enjoy dinner at Segovia
Finally, full of fresh air, make your way back to Winnipeg and enjoy the relaxing saunas and outdoor thermal pools at Thermëa Nordic Spa. Then take in one of the temporary exhibitions at the Winnipeg Art Gallery, followed by splurging on a meal at Segovia, one of the city’s best restaurants. You might even have time to check out some live music at the Times Change(d) High & Lonesome Club. You’ll be humming the tunes as you board your plane home …
Enjoy a city escape in Winnipeg with Canadian Affair
