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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
Lauren Keary

Manhattan's first caviar speakeasy opens with an elaborate 7-course tasting menu

Have you ever heard of a caviar speakeasy? Neither had we. That's most likely because HŪSO is New York’s first ever caviar speakeasy. Directly behind the recently opened caviar shop, Marky’s on Madison, the speakeasy will feature a seven-course, caviar-laced tasting menu.

(Ciara Perrone)

“We like to think that we offer a departure from a firm tradition—caviar on our menu is a centerpiece of some dishes, and a complement in others,” executive chef of HŪSO, Buddha Lo, told Food & Wine. “We want our customers to be able to experience how versatile caviar is.”

Both HŪSO and Marky’s on Madison source their caviar from Florida-based caviar company Marky’s Group. Those who want to purchase caviar can opt to shop at Marky’s on Madison, and people who want a more immersive tasting experience before they decide to buy can come to HŪSO to test the caviar options first.

(Ciara Perrone)

The speakeasy will serve Russian and Siberian Osetra, Sterlet and Sevruga caviars. In addition, Marky’s and HŪSO will be first in the U.S. to serve purebred beluga caviar from its own aquafarm. HŪSO is named in honor of the beluga sturgeon species of caviar.

“Not many chefs get to work with caviar,” Lo tells Food & Wine. “You see it as a prized dish in every Michelin restaurant, but you don’t see it in every single dish.”

(Ciara Perrone)

HŪSO serves caviar in all its dishes, and the rotating 7-course tasting menu features seven different types of caviar for $200. There will be one seating Tuesday through Saturday at 7 p.m., and the speakeasy only sits 12 diners. Guests can also have lunch at HŪSO daily from 12 to 5 p.m.

At lunch, the menu features equally elaborate dishes. One standout is a hot dog with king crab served in a brioche bun, with pickled mustard aioli and eight grams of Beluga di Venezia caviar.

(Ciara Perrone)

If you want to snag a seat at this Upper East Side gem, plan ahead. With so little room, you’ll have to lock down your spot far in advance if you want to experience what caviar tastes like on every dish - including hot dogs.

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