No stranger to Thailand’s well-worn backpacking trail, I’ve long been enamoured with the hospitable country’s capital, Bangkok.
It’s a city that provides the jumping off point for many a fresh-faced and eager adventurer. But unlike on my previous visits, when I was backpacking on a seriously low budget, my latest layover in the city earlier this year was an altogether novel experience. I experienced Bangkok through a more refined, shall we say, White Lotus-esque lens.
Checking into Bangkok’s Mandarin Oriental, I was delighted to find that the elegant bolthole was the spot where Mike White (The White Lotus’ Emmy-award-winning creator), penned much of the script for the show’s latest season, calling it “home” when he stayed earlier this year.
The five-star hotel, which constantly graces ‘best hotel’ lists, was, in fact, the only Bangkok hotel to be featured in White’s latest instalment of the show, along with Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui, where most of the filming took place.
During a scene in episode five, Rick, played by Walton Goggins, is seen walking through Mandarin Oriental Bangkok’s photogenic lobby and later at the intimate Bamboo Bar when he meets Frank, played by Sam Rockwell.
But playing host to luminaries of the screen is nothing out of the ordinary for this iconic structure. Over the years, Mandarin Oriental Bangkok’s outpost has seen both Elizabeth Taylor and Grace Kelly pass through, as well as big-name authors such as Pico Iyer, Ernest Hemingway, Graham Greene, George Orwell and Joseph Conrad. With the latter having a suite named after him in the historic author’s wing that dates back to 1876.
So what’s all the fuss about? I checked in to find out...
Where is it?
In the heart of Bangkok’s cultural district, straddling the Chao Phraya River (the hotel’s spa and Thai restaurant Sala Rim Naam sit across the river, accessible by teak boat), Mandarin Oriental Bangkok is the ideal location for first-timers to the city.
The Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew are just a water bus ride away, while the riverside area surrounding the hotel is distinctly bohemian in feel with plenty of brilliant street-side stalls from where to sample authentic Pad Thai
Suvarnabhumi International Airport is accessible via the expressway in just 40 to 50 minutes, and direct flights from London to Bangkok are available daily, starting at around £645 return with Thai Airways. Or try Opodo for deals.
Style
As a lover of intimate boutique hotels with just a handful of rooms, I always feel slightly too anonymous when staying in sprawling chain hotels, especially since I travel solo for much of the time. Yet Mandarin Oriental’s staff did much to remedy this, remembering me throughout and always being extremely attentive and warm.
The original hotel structure (The Oriental, built in 1876, and the very first hotel in the country) still sits on the grounds of the new iteration of the hotel, The Mandarin Oriental, which is mostly encompassed by a nearby 16-floor building.
While the older building is undoubtedly the prettiest, with its pale green and cream facade, it now houses just the Author’s Lounge, along with a few private rooms from which to enjoy afternoon tea and refreshments close to the river.
The hotel’s main entrance lobby is perhaps one of the most impressive, both in size and decor. An array of fresh orchids, lotus flowers, lilies, and all manner of foliage adorn the ceiling, water fountain, and tabletops, ensuring an exquisite display. Colossal, quirky chandeliers and live violin music only add to the decadent atmosphere.
Which room?
There are 19 different room categories on offer here, ranging from a Royal Suite with its own private entranceway, decked out with white marble and crystal chandeliers and deep jewel tones, to equally impressive but much more affordable Deluxe Premier rooms.
Since all are flawless, shiny, and well-decorated, it’s hard to hone in on one top pick, but I’d say the Author’s suite offers the ideal blend of history and modernity with expansive lounging areas, floor-to-ceiling windows, and a large bathroom with deep-soak bathtub.
Orchids, fruit platters, and elegant furniture are standard across all categories, as is butler service.
Food & Drink
As seen in The White Lotus, The Bamboo Bar is a darkly lit fever dream of mirrored surfaces, wicker furniture, and animal print detailing. Highly photogenic and serving some of the city’s most potent cocktails, it’s worth swinging by for a nightcap after dinner.
Of all of the hotel’s 12 restaurants and bars, Sala Rim Naam, accessed by teak boat across the Chao Phraya River, serves authentic cuisine while traditional Thai music and dance are performed. There’s the option for four or five courses, and while it’s not the best food I’ve ever eaten in Bangkok, the experience is a nice introduction for first-time visitors to Thailand.
Among the hotel’s other offerings, I found a flawless dining room serving classic French dishes, a 10-seat Japanese dining experience, a pretty riverside terrace, and the breakfast buffet, which overlooks the river.
I’d recommend heading to the city’s street food markets to really get immersed in the best of Bangkok’s culinary delights.
Extracurricular
Aside from the hotel’s paradisiacal pool which is hard to leave, there’s plenty to keep travellers occupied. From the captivating Grand Palace to the city’s modern art gallery, MOCA, it’s easy to lose time in Bangkok whether you’re staying for just 24 hours, or even a week or two.
As a lover of modern and street art, MOCA and the area around Talat Noi provide endless inspiration. While Bangkok’s street food markets should be visited without question.
I like the Chinatown area for siu mai, pork noodle soup, and fluffy bao buns. Since Bangkok houses the largest Chinese population outside of China, the food offers a delicious dive into how Thai ingredients have influenced Chinese cuisine over the years.
Best for...
A luxe few nights to complete a Thai getaway or to bookend a longer exploration of the country. While the hotel sits at the high end of the luxury hotel market, I did spy a few fellow solo travellers, though guests are mostly couples, interspersed with multi-generational groups, including some young children.
Double rooms available from £354 per night on a B&B basis. Book it here
