Roberto Cavalli's s/s 2009 menswear collection in MilanPhotograph: Matteo Bazzi/EPADolce & Gabbana opened the week with a bang, last Saturday. Their collection is all about loungewear; suits with elasticated waists, laid-back cottons and sophisticated, unstructured tailoring topped with heavy, black-framed spectacles. Photograph: Matteo Bazzi/EPADolce & Gabbana's second collection, D&G is playful with preppy, youthful vibes. The pieces are peppered with polka dots and stripes, bow ties and of course, geek specs. Photograph: Giulio di Mauro/EPA
School boy meets sailor in D&G's nautical-inspired navy ensemblePhotograph: Giulio di Mauro/EPAAnd the award for the boldest designer of the season goes to Calvin Klein. A mute, neutral colour palette is broken by quick splashes of neons: vibrant limes, yellows and magenta. The mood, best summed up by GQ is "like tasting a grapefruit after a week of pear." The response from the audience? Gasps. Followed by applause. Enough said. Photograph: Matteo Bazzi/EPARoberto Cavalli menswear is all about movement: teeny-tiny leopard prints, wide Seventies trouser hems, safaris, metallics and sophisticated suits. More facets than a Rubik's Cube, if you please.Photograph: Matteo Bazzi/EPAAnother facet of the Roberto Cavalli collection.Photograph: Matteo Bazzi/EPAVivienne Westwood stirs up controversy with her collection that pays "homage" to Gypsys. The runway footwear is all about gladiator flats and square-toed boots and the tailoring, candy striped and loose-fitting. Accessories include medallions and tattoos, gold tooth caps and piercings in strange places...Photograph: Karl Prouse/GettyVivienne Westwood's Gypsy-tribute has been labelled "10 years out of date" for its "romantic notions "of the moving communities by Milan officials.Photograph: Matteo Bazzi/EPASmooth as Obama. Spring/summer 2009 Versace is inspired by the Democrat candidate, all sophisticated suits in ice cream hues and silks with rolled-up sleeves and no ties.Photograph: Newscom/Photoshot/UPPAVersace's collection is coloured with a Neopolitan palette, rolled-up sleeves and laid-back sophistication.Photograph: Newscom/Photoshot/UPPAArmani is still suited and booted for business. The palette of slates and steely blues is softened for a lazy summer feel by billowing fabrics and a splash of ruffles. Photograph: Matteo Bazzi/EPABottega Veneta, like Dolce & Gabbana is fuelled about louche loungewear feels. Think slouchy but sophisticated cotton suits, paisleys and stripes with elasticated waists. Photograph: Giulio di Mauro/EPAMissoni's signature stripes still pervade this collection, which is all in the detail. Cut-off shirts, teeny tiny shorts and slim-fitting tailoring. Photograph: Matteo Bazzi/EPAMissoni's footwear for spring/summer 2009 is dominated by suede loafers and gladiator flats.Photograph: Matteo Bazzi/EPAFor Marni, the palette is mute oatmeals and taupes while the shapes stay boxy. The collection is dominated by capes, rounded shoulders and skinny ties. Photograph: Giulio di Mauro/EPAJil Sander menswear has gone Mark Rothko-meets-the-future on us. Designer Raf Simons has stacked blocks of colour - reds whites, blues and pastels - onto the traditional suit. Photograph: Giulio di Mauro/EPAChristopher Bailey aptly named this season's collection, Crumpled Classics. It's all about unstructured looks and the beauty is in the feel of the fabrics. Light, sensual silk nylons, silk knits and and canvas totes. A return to classic Burberry Prorsum.Photograph: Matteo Bazzi/EPABurberry Prorsum's collection is crumpled, classic and fit for British April showersPhotograph: Matteo Bazzi/EPAEtro menswear mixes citrus and olive hues on a backgroup of oatmeal and cornflour shades, topped with Indian-inspired pashminas and wide-brimmed hats.Photograph: Matteo Bazzi/EPAFendi menswear returns to schoolboy chic. Low-slung satchels and ankle-skirting trouser hems mixed with preppy bow ties and cardigans with an almost-Autumn colour palette. Photograph: Giulio di Mauro/EPAFrankie Morello's collection this season mixes oatmeal and cornflour shades with injections of plummy purple, stripes and technicoloured footwear. And this piece wins our award for the most attention-grabbing, downright bizarre headwear. Or is it a belt?Photograph: Matteo Bazzi/EPA
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