Poor maligned Malta. The miniscule country just beneath Sicily has traditionally been derided as one of the Med’s less glamorous spots, somewhere culturally oblivious types descend upon for cheap beach fly ‘n’ flops, and it’s only now that it’s one of the few realistic holiday destinations on the UK’s green list that the rest of us are suddenly expressing an interest.
We may be fickle, but the good news is that those who have never previously considered Malta will be dazzled. Home to one of the world’s tiniest, prettiest capitals; offering millennia of history; blessed with constant sunny weather and exceptionally good value to boot, Malta will undoubtedly provide a far superior holiday than you’d likely encounter in other green-list favourites such as the South Sandwich Islands (thanks so much for that, Shapps). Just don’t expect good beaches: despite its aforementioned reputation, they’re conspicuously and surprisingly absent.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Valletta
A walled city on a promontory, Malta’s teensy capital is a labyrinth of sloped side streets, grand governmental buildings and immaculate gardens. Picturesque - the protruding wooden balconies that are one of Malta’s most distinctive architectural offerings are everywhere here - and still populated with plenty of interesting standalone boutiques, bars and eateries, it makes a wonderful place to while away a day. Its most notable landmark is the incredibly ornate St John’s Co-Cathedral.
The Three Cities
A gorgeous spread of golden-stone properties, old churches and quaint plazas, these revitalised settlements straddle Malta’s Grand Harbour - consistently populated with knockout superyachts - and house a number of sophisticated independent boutiques. Check out Birgu Blue Rendez Vous for beautiful, fairly priced leatherwares made with patience and love on-site by Taipei-born artisan Ozzy Chien.
Gozo
Affordably reached via new commuter ferry services that launched from Valletta in June, small, sleepy, spiritual Gozo is Malta at its most traditional. Yippee offers tours of the island aboard all-electric tuk-tuks, including visits to its citadel or vertigo-inducing cliffs.
Mdina
Once Malta’s capital, the aptly named "silent city" of Mdina is tranquil and beautiful. If you want to be properly touristy you can explore its tiny laneways by horse and carriage; on a clear day, its hilltop setting might allow for views of Sicily and Mount Etna.
The megalithic temple complex of Hagar Qim is atmospheric and enigmatic - confusion still reigns over its precise prehistoric function, but you can’t help but be impressed by its heft and gravitas, still discernible millennia later.
WHERE TO STAY
Iniala Harbour House
Malta’s most luxurious hotel, recently opened Iniala wows with no-expense-spared design and an exceptional Valletta setting. Spread across a succession of renovated townhouses, its rooms and suites might include private plunge pools or a dramatic glass-walled balcony.
Rooms from €350; inialamalta.com
Xara Palace
Mdina’s best hotel, this Relais & Chateaux property occupies one of the Silent City’s grandest buildings. Rooms vary in design - not all are to my tastes but there are some jewels. Fancy rooftop restaurant The de Mondion is exceptional.
Rooms from €180; xarapalace.com.mt
The Phoenicia
You’ll rediscover that much-missed holiday feeling in its full force at this large-scale, high-end stalwart’s suntrap outdoor pool, plus its spa has just emerged from a recent refurb.
Rooms from €159; phoeniciamalta.com
Hyatt Regency Malta
Within easy reach of St Julian’s bars and shops, this modern new arrival offers comprehensive wellness facilities and a popular rooftop pool.
Rooms from €159; hyatt.com
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
ION - The Harbour
The superb Grand Harbour views are a huge draw at ION - The Harbour, but Iniala’s rooftop restaurant is the talk of the town for another reason right now. Previously of Mayfair’s Greenhouse restaurant, chef Alex Dilling has just commenced a 100-day residency and his intricate, consistently delicious dishes are some of the most impressive currently to be had in the country.
Hammett’s Macina
I had a note-perfect lunch here recently (with fantastically charismatic service from an Irish-South African waiter). Simply put, the likes of tender roasted lamb with Moroccan spices, dates and cumin, and quail with fennel, mandarin and yellow lentil purée, were just really, really tasty. To finish, the tahini fondant with chocolate ice cream was the best dessert I’ve had this year. I’d almost go back to Malta again specifically for it… Hammettsmacina.com
Under Grain
One of Valletta’s three Michelin-starred restaurants, dinner in this subterranean setting is a leisurely hours-long affair. Expect the likes of torched scallops with caper, caviar and sage beurre blanc, as well as steamed Gozitan asparagus with smoked eel, buratina and miso Chantilly.
Beefbar Malta
A sibling to the eponymous Monaco beach club, this expensive seaside venue is where wealthy young Maltese discuss cryptocurrency over poolside jeroboams of Miraval rosé. The food is good: burgers are mammoth and the chips are special, but I felt unsophisticated when they told me they didn’t stock the ingredients required to make a pina colada. Then again, can you really call yourself a beach club if you don’t serve the quintessential holiday cocktail?
Eeetwell
It’s a chain but there’s nothing wrong with that, and if you want something cheap, cheerful and healthy it delivers. Try the Mediterranean tuna salad if you need a reprieve from the greasy food and oversized portions more typically offered in Malta’s accessibly priced eateries.
