In the dynamic volatile food scene of Bangkok, we've seen trends introduced and fade and new restaurants emerge and disappear.
But then there are some gourmet legacies that manage to stand tall against new-coming rivalries. One of them is Madison.
The establishment first opened in 2001, when the premises was managed by Four Seasons Hotel chain, as a fine-dining grill room.
The 17-year-old, fine-dining restaurant is one of the city's best-bet spots for refined steak.
From the first day of operations, the 5-star venue has been treasured by well-heeled families, high-ranking politicians, corporate executives and expats alike.
Today, under the brand Anantara Siam, the steakhouse continues to stay true to its DNA by focusing on finest beef and seafood choices prepared by dexterous chefs.
Though I am no stranger to the place, this is my first review of Madison. And I am glad that the kitchen is now under the helm of new German head chef Nico Merten, who has over the past 16 months overseen the culinary direction of the restaurant.
Merten was trained in classic European cuisine and worked at award-winning restaurants in Germany before he later developed his passion for Asian culinary bliss.
At Madison, he has introduced his signature creations -- a few at a time -- while retaining some of the steakhouse's long-favourite recipes.
My dinner started off with a dazzling plate of carabinero prawns and mango salad (470 baht). Two sizeable red prawns, imported from Lisbon, Portugal, were flash-steamed and served with pellets of Mexican capsicum sauce and miso gel. Perfectly complementing the very sweet prawns was a refreshing helping of mango salsa.
Dry-aged beef is one of chef Merten's much-loved pieces of produce. The longer the beef is aged means the tastier a meat it will provide, he says. Right now he opts for a choice from Hereford cattle raised in Ireland.
From the appetiser list, the beef is offered simply yet most impressively in a form of ravioli and consommé (490 baht).
Madison Steakhouse head chef Nico Merten.
Two pudgy pieces of house-made ravioli came generously stuffed with coarsely-minced dry-aged beef and exhibited a very delicious beefy taste. Enhancing the al dente dumplings was the intense-yet-subtle, amber-hue beef broth, a result of 48 hours of simmering, complemented by crunchy and naturally sweet vegetable pearls.
Merten's beef tartare (890 baht) was one of the most scrumptious and addictive renditions I've ever had. It's an ultimate plate of French culinary luxury with hand-chopped Charolais beef layered with foie gras, caviar and mustard -- all from France.
Should you shun red meat, the restaurant's all-time best-selling tuna tartare (500 baht) promises to give you taste bud contentment. I was impressed by the fresh quality of the tuna, which was neatly cubed and served chilled with chopped avocado, shallots, honey and wasabi-soya sauce.
Coffee-infused dry-aged striploin steak (1,450 baht) is chef Merten's signature main course.
The beef was aged for 4-6 weeks and marinated in coffee butter for 24 hours before being sous-vide and pan-grilled right upon serving to give a nice charred crust. The beef strips exhibited a perfect medium-cook quality with the taste intensified by a somewhat coffee-and-cream aroma. Accompanying the beef was sautéed shimeji mushrooms in bone marrow, mashed potatoes and red wine glaze.
My dining companion, who's a steak buff but rather old-school, demanded a plate of charcoal-grilled rib eye and had to choose between Jack's Creek Black Angus and Darling Downs wagyu, both from Australia.
His Black Angus rib eye (1,800 baht) came with nice marbling sweet delicate fat that required merely nothing more than a pinch of salt from the restaurant's impressive collection of gourmet salt that included Himalayan pink salt, red-wine infused salt, truffle salt, lemon salt and French fleur de sel.
Meanwhile, pan-seared French Dover sole (1,480 baht) proved an on-point seafood choice. Thanks to the fish's supple but firm and naturally flavoursome meat that went marvellously with lemon butter sauce and a small helping of brandade (a mixture of salted cod, potato and olive oil), the dish was heavenly to the bone.
Options of side dishes (170 baht each) to go with the main meat and seafood course included potato-leek gratin, French fries, buttered mixed vegetables, green asparagus with Parmesan, onion rings and creamed spinach.
The steak-centric evening was beautifully wrapped up with a refreshing dessert platter called I Like Berries (320 baht). Service was top-class and affable.
