International clothing brands can now argue they know everything about the garments they make and their journey from field to factory to a shopper's eager hands.
This kind of 100% supply chain transparency is an industry first and the leading fashion industry environmental group MADE-BY has helped it happen.
According to MADE-BY, a non-profit organisation, up to 10% of Europe's environmental impact can be attributed to the consumption of clothing. Environmental and social pressure on the industry is mounting from organisations like Greenpeace, whose Detox campaign highlights the lethal chemicals polluting rivers near textile factories.
As a major contributor to the UK-based Sustainable Clothing Action Plan (SCAP), MADE-BY has helped signed up 12 of the UK's key retailers to a programme of setting action plans to meet carbon, water and waste reduction targets by 2020. Based on the value of their sales, they account for 30% of the UK's clothing retail market.
Transparency is a pivotal in helping the clothing sector become more sustainable and the group's scorecards are enabling brands to report clearly on the progress they are making. It's a complex area. Fabrics made of petrochemicals, viscose, cotton and wool pollute the environment even before manufacturing. The manufacturing process uses yet more energy and causes more pollution.
In 2013, MADE-BY turned its expertise to this critical issue by helping brands address their chemical footprint through strategies, reviewing restricted substance lists and training product development teams. It has updated its Guide to Wet Processing Standards, which covers chemical management, and Fibre and Social Benchmarks – decision-making tools used across the industry by brands such as H&M and G-Star.
MADE-BY has developed a Detox Package to help brands tackle hazardous chemicals in supply chains. The package includes a manual on wet processing techniques, the environmental implications of different processes, sustainable alternatives, support in reviewing and updating Restricted Substances Lists, supply chain mapping, data gathering and analysis, and implementation programmes.
In 2013, the organisation helped a number of leading international brands – including Tommy Hilfiger, Ted Baker and Primark – create individual sustainability programmes. In 2013 it hosted events across Europe, engaging a cross section of brands, from luxury to high street, and helped integrate 500 tonnes of organic cotton in 3.8m garments.
With the organisation's support, a brand can analyse the impact it is having on the world both environmentally and socially. It has a benchmark that compares the impact of 28 commonly used fibres, ranking them from the most to the least sustainable.
To benchmark for social impact, it has developed a list of countries that can be classified as "low risk" for garment production that do not require social audits. Rather than create more new codes, the consultancy will advise brands and garment factories on how to improve working conditions right down the supply chain, an issue so tragically highlighted when the Rana Plaza factory collapsed in April 2013, killing an estimated 1,129 people and injuring a further 2,515.
Jackie Wills is part of the wordworks network
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