Though a relative newcomer to the local dining scene, Madam Shawn is a familiar name to lovers of fine Thai cuisine… in Paris. That's because owner Khun Jittini Wangsin has literally made a name for herself ('Shawn' is the Anglicised version of her Thai nickname) among notoriously discerning French diners with six branches of her popular Thai eateries and bistros.
The evening's starter dish was like a breezy autumn afternoon, in that the plate was covered in leaves. But far from a gardening issue, this leafy array was the traditional Thai hors d'oeuvres Miang Kham (115B++).
The fresh bai cha plu sport a dollop of sweet-and-salty tamarind sauce and are sprinkled with a potpourri of herbs, peanuts and toasted coconut which, when eaten together make for an intriguing palate-pleaser.
Leaves again took centre-stage with the arrival of Kai hor bai toey (130B), with boneless bites of garlic/sesame-oil/fish sauce-seasoned chicken wrapped in Pandan leaf. The petit sachets are then tied off with a length of vine and deep-fried. One simply peels open the rigid leaf-wrapper to get to the succulent meat inside, not unlike unwrapping a plateful of tiny, delicious birthday gifts.
Most of us know the savoury soup Khao Soi Kai (175B), but ordering it here will turn your world upside-down. No, really. Instead of a bowl, Madame Shawn's version of this northern-Thai favourite is served on a plate, with the boneless, coconut-curried chicken perched atop a stack of crispy noodles. Unconventional presentation notwithstanding, the flavours and textures that describe this dish are real-deal authentic and it should not be missed.
Another innovative take on a popular dish, the Lab moo tod (120B) blends the best of two north-eastern dishes. The deep-fried pork (normally it's grilled or pan-fried) is pummel-minced and wok-fried with kaffir leaf, shallot, coriander and the 'secret ingredient'--roasted rice.
Though there's nothing unconventional about the Kai Pad Med Mamuang (170B++), Madame's version is a delight. The pan-fried chicken is tender and plays perfectly off the crispy cashew nuts, bell pepper and green onion, while the slightly sweet sauce pulls the flavourful amalgam of ingredients together.
A tantalising flavour-factory of piquant goodness, the Panang kai (170) features a thick, rich coconut milk-based sauce with chilli and basil and generously-sized chicken pieces. Ladled over a steaming mound of rice, the aroma that arises when this dish is served will easily elicit a Pavlov-effect response from any fellow diners sitting within olfactory range, so just imagine how it tastes! (heavenly)
True to form for a Franco-Thai kitchen, desserts here speak Thai with a thick Euro accent. Take for example the Panna Cotta Tub Tim Grob (140B) with its silky-smooth coconut custard base topped with firm-textured taro beads resplendent in crimson hue. ("Tub Tim" = ruby).
But wait, it gets better…
'Chocolate spring rolls' (160B). What more need we say, except yes, they're as as good as they sound. Not nearly as eccentric but no less decadent and satisfying, the plain old Cheesecake (140) is sumptuously moist and rich and goes really nicely when paired up on a fork with the choco-springies.
Occupying a corner house Sukhumvit Soi 49's prime business zone, the décor at Madame Shawn is a tasteful mosaic of Thai and Euro-modern touches, apropos the menu's continental influence, while the English-speaking waitress provided exceptional service and insightful advice.
Madame Shawn (02 258-1205) is open daily for lunch and dinner, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 6 to 10:30 p.m.
