What a difference a week makes in the world of M&S clothing. Last week was dominated by the launch of the second Alexa Chung-designed archive collection, with several pieces including Instagram favourite Crown jacket – currently sold out in most sizes. This week, the store is downsizing its clothing ranges in response to consistently bad figures.
From a fashion point of view, it’s a bit of a shame. Chung’s collection was a bold move for a brand more associated with cotton knickers and Twiggy Christmas adverts than a style icon with reach to the millennial customer. It seemed to suggest the ship was finally turning around, and has been followed with other collaborations – Princess Marie-Chantal of Greece on childrenswear, Baarts & Siegels on menswear.
The main line has enjoyed moments in the spotlight – the pink coat of 2013, and the suede skirt last year, as modelled by Chung – but they have been too few and far between for the executives watching the sales figures fall.
But behind these headliners, the bulk of what’s in store is miles behind. Fashion insiders head for the eveningwear (velvet dresses, sequin skirts) rather than staples like jumpers and sensible work clothes. The daywear – the bread and butter of the brand – feels outdated and stale. That is a misstep when everyday staples are now the height of fashion.
Just look at the competitors. Zara’s profits rose by 8% recently, largely due to a consistent drip of trend-led but wearable clothes that have a day-to-night ease and friendly price that appeals to a younger customer. Or take Ted Baker, where profits rose 20.5% last year. The current Ted Baker homepage is dedicated to “a simple formula for everyday style”, featuring subtly designed items including a Lurex polo shirt or a colour-block dress worn with trainers. By contrast, the M&S homepage focuses on padded jackets – a big trend for the season – but makes them look cosy and practical rather than cool and exciting.
Rebooting the daywear could be a good first step to improvement.
The spring/summer 2017 collections will be revealed next week – the first designs we’ll see after this overhaul, and the ones that will be sold in the remaining clothing departments next year. Another week in the life of M&S may yet provide another twist and turn.
