White Lotus star Theo James is getting into the restaurant business, teaming up with Carousel co-founder Ed Templeton to launch a new venture in Highbury.
Lupa, named after the mythical she-wolf of Rome, is inspired by the Italian capital’s traditional osterias, famous for serving inexpensive and simple, classic dishes.
The restaurant will focus on the “beauty and simplicity” of Roman cooking but with a “distinct London flare”, the Standard was told.
In charge of the kitchen is Naz Hassan, who grew up in Italy and might be best known for his time at Pidgin, one of East London’s most popular restaurants until its closure last year. His background also includes stints at Clipstone, Neo Bistro and BiBi.
The menu will also be informed by Highbury locals Templeton, who spent time living in Rome, and James, who most recently appeared in Guy Ritchie’s hit gangster escapade The Gentlemen.
“Theo and I are both Highbury locals and share an ambition to open an enduring neighbourhood classic,” Templeton told the Standard.
“It's taken 18 months to make it happen, but we knew it was a special corner of Highbury from the start. We just needed a special chef who could help us bring the Roman dream to life.
“Working together with Naz, we've conceived a menu that's casual, fun and delicious. We want people to enjoy it in its entirety, making sure they save room for the homemade dolci. Lupa is the kind of place we've always wanted to have on our doorstep. There are certain Roman dishes that people know but much is still largely to be discovered”.
Part of the menu will be a changing roster of seasonal specials but it will mostly consist of “crowd-pleasing favourites” and dishes from Rome and the wider Lazio region.
Antipasti for the table will pay homage to Rome’s love affair with the friggitrice (deep-fat fryer), where the likes of fiori di zucca (stuffed courgette flowers) and supplì al telefono (mozzarella-filled arancini named after the strings of a telephone cord) will be prepared.
Primi, meanwhile, will honour canonical dishes from Rome: carbonara, bucatini all’amatriciana, and cacio e pepe, all of which are now enshrined in modern London restaurants. Hassan, who will hand roll fresh pasta each morning, has promised to stay close to tradition, sourcing the best guanciale and pecorino, among other ingredients. Prices aren’t yet fully determined, but pastas will be around £15 a plate.
And secondi? Diners should expect the likes of porchetta stuffed with chicken livers, fennel seeds and chilli, and lamb cutlets from the grill. Contorni will include spring vegetables in a light spring broth, and another Roman signature, artichoke hearts braised in white wine, olive oil and garlic.
Sundays, all important, will be devoted to weekend specials such as lasagne, patate alla romana and cream-filled buns. And on match days for local team Arsenal, porchetta sandwiches to take-away.
Interiors — designed by Templeton, James, and actors Georgia Maguire and Ruth Kearney (married to both respectively) — are to be laid back and simple, with just 28 covers. Tables “will be tightly packed” and the service unhurried, again mirroring the osterias that influenced the opening.
Finally, drinks will focus on cocktails and spritzes, as well as “keenly priced, approachable” Italian wines.
Lupa will open in late June at 73 Highbury Park, N5 1UA, lupa.restaurant
