Love it or hate it, marmite is having a moment.
Last week, much of Food Twitter was salivating at the news of a new collaboration for Marks & Spencer; their food halls have partnered with the spread for a series of new snacks. The marmite cream cheese sounds nauseating, but the marmite butter will likely mimic a mix that many chefs already use, while the marmite cheese twists look something close to irresistible.
It's not all as odd as it sounds; marmite has a tang, a flavour of beef and beer that carries plenty of salt, a little soy. It's savoury. It's yeasty. It's an oddity, which makes it surprisingly fun to cook with; adding it to to dishes is something like a shortcut to instant depth.
Certainly, it doesn't work everywhere – a fair and just society would likely limit its usage, hauling off the rogue chefs who drop it in ragu. But when its done right, it's a tart little pleasure. Sceptical? Here are five dishes to convince yourself otherwise.
Darby’s
After a pint of Guinness and half-a-dozen oysters at the Darby's bar, pick up a cheese and marmite swirl from the bakery, a perfect snack for the journey home. Nice breakfast, too.
£3, SW11, darbys-london.com
Mere
At her elegant Fitzrovia restaurant, Masterchef judge Monica Galetti adds a marmite emulsion to her tortelli pasta with wild mushrooms and confit chicken.
£18, W1T, mere-restaurant.com
45 Jermyn St.
Breakfast here is a treat; try the crumpets soaked with marmite and topped with fried duck eggs, their orange yolks as bright as the leather banquettes.
£5.50 for one/£11 for two, SW1, 45jermynst.com
Peckham Cellars
Potato dauphines are stuffed with Montgomery cheese and made rich with marmite at this low key, neighbourhood wine bar.
£4, SE15, peckhamcellars.co.uk
Marks and Spencer
Staying in? M&S have whipped up marmite cream cheese — no thanks — but these marmite and cheddar twists, in stores soon, look gorgeous.
