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Liverpool Echo
Liverpool Echo
National
Phoebe Barton

Lost Liverpool restaurant Rick Stein 'would have approved' of was ideal for a 'special night out'

Liverpool is full of fancy restaurants perfect for celebrating a special occasion, but there was once an eatery so impressive that it’s said even chef Rick Stein “would have approved” of it.

Situated on the Albert Dock, Mister M’s Waterside Seafood was particularly popular in the late 1990s and early Noughties. In 2000, a Reach reviewer visited the restaurant with high expectations due to the lack of fish restaurants in Liverpool at the time and their love of seafood.

They began their review: “Rick Stein may be able to rustle up a lobster thermidor in about 10 minutes. But I'm about as good at cooking seafood – and getting it just right – as I am at juggling, i.e. not very. And yet, by a cruel twist of fate, I love the stuff. And by an even crueller twist of fate, Liverpool is not exactly over-run with restaurants which specialise in cooking it."

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Often lovingly referred to as just Mr M’s, the restaurant had tough competition at the time, with one of the only other fish restaurants in the city, Jenny’s Seafood, being a firm favourite of many locals - and even a former President of the United States. It was a Friday evening when the reviewer and their dining partner visited Mister M’s Waterside Restaurant, which was located near to where The Beatles Story is today.

Set over two floors, the eatery had simple brick walls, “huge domineering windows”, and a “classy spiral staircase” in the middle of the room. As for the menu, it consisted of “plenty of tempting and original dishes”. This included starters of Smoked Haddock Fillet “classically served with a poached egg and a chive sauce”, and traditional Moules Marinere that was “a winner”.

Executive head chefs and owners of Mister M's Waterside Seafood restaurant Mike McDonald and Barry Molyneux (Trinity Mirror)

As for the mains, the pair opted for Singapore Red Mullet, which was cooked in chillies with rice noodles and Chinese mushrooms, shrimps, ginger and spring onions. The reviewer declared it the “perfect combination”.

The other main course that caught their attention was the Gratin of Cod that came in a “subtle” dijon mustard sauce that was “lovely”. Despite the “delicious and calorific-sounding desserts”, including Chocolate Truffle and Sticky Toffee Pudding, the pair were able to resist.

For two courses each and a bottle of white wine, the reviewer spent £50.70 at Mister M’s Waterside Seafood. Back in 2000, this was pretty expensive, but the reviewer thought it was worth it, especially for a “special night out”.

They ended the review: “All in all, we were pretty impressed with Mister M's: with the service, the setting and most importantly the food. I don't know about Mr M, but Mr Stein, I felt, would have approved.”

Did you ever dine at Mister M’s Waterside Seafood restaurant? Share your memories in the comments section below.

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