Roman Polanski's Chinatown is a fictional story about real events: a bitter dispute between city residents and farmers over local water rights in early 20th-century Los Angeles. The atmospheric neo-noir thriller features Jack Nicholson as private detective JJ Gittes who finds himself investigating both a murder and a shady land-grab by the powerful oligarchs who control the drought-stricken city's water supply.
More than just a stylish period piece, the film is also a virtual catalogue of locations in which to revel in LA's cultural heritage and natural beauty. A good starting point is the film's namesake – Chinatown. Even though little of the film's action takes place here, it looms large in Gittes' psyche as the complex and corrupt place where he once worked the beat as a cop. Explore the vibrant, 70-year-old neighbourhood by wandering down Spring Street, site of the film's dramatic conclusion.
Much more of the film plays out at the scenic Oak Pass reservoir, the body of water at the centre of the intrigue. In reality this is the Stone Canyon reservoir, set amid the stunning Santa Monica mountains just north of Bel Air. Although the reservoir itself is closed to the public, there's a scenic lookout at Stone Canyon Overlook on Mulholland Drive, as well as a network of hiking trails for those tempted to explore.
The place where Gittes notices the reservoir's water being illegally dumped into the ocean – and Hollis Mulwray descending the cliffs to the beach – is another of the city's jewels, Point Fermin park and lighthouse in San Pedro. At the very southern tip of the city, this picturesque spot offers tree-shaded lawns, colourful gardens and breathtaking views of the Channel Islands from the cliff-top promenade.
One of these islands also features in the film. Santa Catalina Island (usually shortened to Catalina) is where Gittes visits water magnate Noah Cross on his ranch. The ranch, called El Rancho Escondido, not only exists but is still in operation; take a tour to learn all about its history of breeding champion Arabian horses. Afterwards spend an afternoon exploring historic Avalon, the island's main settlement.
Urban Los Angeles has no shortage of appealing spots either. The charming neighbourhood of Echo Park was once home to the nascent film industry before it moved to Hollywood.
Today it's known for its eclectic mix of cultures and architecture, as well as the palm-fringed lake at its heart on which Gittes surreptitiously photographs Hollis Mulwray with his "girlfriend". Like them, you can rent a boat and paddle around, and if you're impressed by the lake's quality you can thank the extensive rehabilitation project currently underway – evidence that water continues to be a vitally important topic in Los Angeles.
Watch Chinatown on Sky Movies Modern Greats on Sunday 30 January at 8pm
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