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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
World
Richard Nelsson

Looking back: mountaineering

Mount Everest expedition campsite.
Mount Everest expedition campsite. Photograph: Barry C. Bishop/National Geographic/Getty Images

14 July 1865

The first ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865: seven mountaineers led by Edward Whymper became the first to scale the peak that lies between Switzerland and Italy.

5 March 1904

Mountaineering on skis: if properly used, skis give to the ordinary raptures of a glissade a more perfectly lyrical quality.

30 September 1927

Woman’s ascent of Kilimanjaro: the climb by 22-year-old Miss Sheila MacDonald is the first time the feat has been accomplished by a woman.

The Matterhorn, shrouded in clouds.
The Matterhorn, shrouded in clouds. Photograph: Alamy

23 July 1936

The Eiger: climbers die one by one. Fateful attempt to take the Eigerwand.

2 June 1953

A new, timely and brilliant jewel: the first ascent of Everest. Nepalese or Indian? Debate over Tensing’s nationality.

Sir Edmund Hilary (left) and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay (right), with expedition leader Colonel John Hunt (centre) in Kathmandu, Nepal,1953.
Sir Edmund Hilary (left) and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay (right), with expedition leader Colonel John Hunt (centre) in Kathmandu, Nepal,1953. Photograph: PA

4 August 1954

Italian mountaineers conquer K2: expedition led and organised by Professor Ardio Desio of Milan University is the first to reach the summit of the world’s second highest mountain.

24 May 1963

Everest by the West Ridge: American pair, Unsoeld and Hornbein, conquer unclimbed route.

Mountaneers on K2, Himalayas Pakistan.
Mountaneers on K2, Himalayas Pakistan. Photograph: Alamy

4 October 1963

Conquistadors of the useless: Paddy Monkhouse reviews a book full of beauty and adventure from the great French climber, Lionel Terray.

11 February 1978

Climber turns back on bravery award: Doug Scott, who descended Karakoram Ogre in the Himalayas on broken legs, rejects the Victoria Sporting Club’s Valour in Sport award.

The towering peaks of Latok group (left) and Baintha Brakk (right, aka. the Ogre), part of Panmah Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram mountains, Pakistan.
The towering peaks of Latok group (left) and Baintha Brakk (right, aka. the Ogre), part of Panmah Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram mountains, Pakistan. Photograph: Feng Wei Photography/Getty Images

30 November 2003

Friends in high places: Joe Simpson was left for dead by his climbing partner - but survived to make a fortune from the tale. Now an epic new film has reopened all the old mountain wounds.

26 March 2012

Uphill struggle for female mountaineering pioneers: in the early days, women shunned skirts and social norms to reach some of the highest peaks.

American mountaineer Annie Smith Peck (1850 - 1935) in full mountain climbing gear, circa 1928.
American mountaineer Annie Smith Peck (1850 - 1935) in full mountain climbing gear, circa 1928. Photograph: FPG/Getty Images

8 November 2018

Chasing Denali: the four miners who created one of climbing’s greatest mysteries.

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