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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Hannah Marriott

London Underground launches new uniform from Wayne Hemingway

Going underground ... TFL's new uniform.
Going underground ... TFL’s new uniform.

Twitter is the harshest of fashion critics, so when Transport for London launched its new staff uniforms on Monday, the response was predictably cynical. “Wonderful – if they wanted to look like they were selling trainers in a sports store,” commented one. “Can we get a tube strike to force Fred Perry to redesign those new uniforms?” asked another.

Designed by Wayne Hemingway, the uniforms are certainly a departure from the over-sized, red-collared, navy blue fleeces most commonly seen in London Underground ticket halls. The most significant changes come via outerwear: a zip-up gilet, with a round, bright red collar, and the intriguingly named “fleecington” – a combination of a fleece and a Harrington jacket.

At the launch of the uniform, at Oxford Circus tube station, enthusiasm levels are high. Standing proud in a smart, over-sized navy covert coat with the London Underground roundel embossed on the pockets and tailored trousers, customer service assistant Serge Ake says he was “a bit tired” with the existing uniform, “but in this I feel proud, and protected and warm. People arrive here from New York, Tokyo, and we are the first people they meet in London. We needed a uniform that matches that ambition.”

Many staff had been complaining about their uniforms for years. Women were particularly uncomfortable, wearing scaled down versions of men’s clothes with trousers cut so awkwardly “that we’d all be rolling the waistbands down, over and over,” says engagement co-ordinator Sarah Beighton. This time, she says, the focus is on fit and comfort. “The platform’s really hot; the gallery’s really cold – they need to work in extremes,” adds Beighton.

The 'fleecington' jacket.
The ‘fleecington’ jacket.

Hemingway spent a year and a half consulting with staff during the research process, encouraging them to air their grievances about the existing kit and pipe up with ideas. It was in a staff meeting that the “Fleecington” was born: “Two blokes brought along Harrington jackets and said they were their favourite things in their wardrobes. Loads of others said that they loved fleeces. But fleeces are a bit scruffy – they don’t shout out ‘vibrant London’. So we decided to merge the two.”

This democratic feeling cuts across the new uniform, with customisable options ranging from beanies to traditional peaked caps; from crisp shirts to polos. The uniform is designed to cater to all religions, too, with Rastafarian hats, headscarves and turbans part of the eventual collection. The overall aim is visibility: “Increasingly we’re tapping credit cards to get into barriers, not buying tickets, and staff are taking a more ambassadorial role – we want people to easily see them and ask them for directions; to tell people what’s above ground too,” says Hemingway.

“Some of my colleagues are sceptical,” admits Ake. “Change isn’t easy, and there have been a few glitches with sizes, but I’d urge them to keep an open mind.” Currently on trial at six London stations – Harrow on the Hill, Greenford, Oxford Circus, Mile End, Camden Town and Perivale, as well as train depots at Acton Town and Edgware Road – the uniforms will be rolled out across the network next year. Away from the flashbulbs and cameras of the launch, what do TfL staff think? “Oh no – is that the new uniform?” deadpans one male customer service advisor, then sadly shakes his head. His female colleague is more generous: “Well, I will say that the women’s uniform is better than the men’s. But that’s all I’m saying. That and bless them. They tried.”

1912 ... two employees in the ticket office at Liverpool Street.
1912 ... two employees in the ticket office at Liverpool Street. Photograph: Topical Press Agency/Getty Images
A TfL ticket officer in 1931.
A TfL ticket officer in 1931. Photograph: Keystone-France/Getty Images
Tailored ... Underground worker, Frank Waring, in 1953.
Tailored ... Underground worker, Frank Waring, in 1953. Photograph: Charles Hewitt/Getty Images
1978 ... Ann Dodds is the company's first woman driver.
1978 ... Ann Dodds is the company’s first woman driver. Photograph: Rob Taggart/Getty Images
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