Roast with the most: the festive trimmings at the Old Queen’s Head, Islington
(Picture: Joshua Hiatt)It’s the most wonderful time of the year — at least, for eating.
With London’s meat-free scene ever on the up, the Scrooge-worthy plates of dry vegetables with all the tasty trimmings removed are but a distant not-so-festive memory.
This year, the city is abundant with vegan Christmas dinners, from traditional roasts, to experimental festive fine dining. Here are a few of our favourites.
The Spread Eagle
Editor’s choice
A classic cosy pub, with a 100 per cent vegan menu, and a shrine to Prince. What’s not to love about The Spread Eagle? The festive menu here is one to write home about. To start: deep fried shamembert, cranberry and port chutney or a shockingly “meaty” faux gras served with toast and pickles. For the main event, there are four options — my favourite being the beet wellington served with all the trimmings. Seeings as it’s Christmas and we’re eating until we can’t anymore, for dessert I’d recommend the classic sticky toffee pudding. To make it through so much grub, you’re sure to need some help washing it down. On top of their always fabulous cocktail menu, at this time of year they’re also serving up mulled wine, vegan eggnog, and the most decadent, boozy hot chocolates.
224 Homerton High Street, E9, thespreadeaglelondon.co.uk
The Gate
The Gate is the place to go if you’re feeling a little experimental and in search of some luxury. With its excellent service and exquisite presentation, it’s one of the few fully vegan and vegetarian restaurants in London offering festive fine dining. To start, vegans can attempt to make the impossible choice between plantain fritters, or truffle and mushroom arancini. For the main comes a Christmas Rotolo, or the classic wellington both served with a selection of vegetables. There’s not a roast potato in sight here, so it’s not for the traditionalists, but I for one had zero complaints about parsnip puree, or my mashed potato served swimming in red wine reduction. For dessert there’s choice of a delicious dark chocolate mousse served on orange frangipane, or a cinnamon and apple mille feuille.
22-24 Seymour Place, W1, thegaterestaurants.com
Cafe Van Gogh
A not-for-profit social enterprise, which serves up spectacular food, Cafe Van Gogh is the perfect place to eat as much as possible in the name of supporting the local community. Served with a glass of mulled wine, their Christmas menu is fantastically original. To start: blinis topped with smoked carrot lox and a celeriac remoulade, followed by an impressively-presented whole stuffed pumpkin packed with “chicken”, leek and porcini mushrooms, served with bacon sauce, confit garlic potato boulangere, crispy sprouts and maple-glazed carrots. If after all of that you can fit a pudding, it’s black forest cheesecake, kirsch cream and nut brittle. If you’ve never visited before, the spectacular ceiling mural inspired by the restaurant’s namesake is reason enough.
88 Brixton Road, SW9, cafevangogh.co.uk
The Old Queen’s Head
A classic London pub at its best. The Old Queen’s Head is warm and vibrant, with a brilliantly eclectic decor including beautiful stained glass. Decked out with comfy booths, and a beautiful fairy light-covered garden, this is the place to spend a cosy Sunday with friends. It serves superb cocktails, great portions, and is in a brilliant location surrounded by independent stores perfect for Christmas shopping. The menu is a classic Sunday lunch, with a single vegan option of a chestnut mushroom wellington served with potatoes, parsnips, carrots and a welcome addition of curly kale. It’s not on menu, but on request the kitchen here whipped us up a fantastic sticky toffee pudding — just the reward for hard hours of shopping.
44 Essex Road, N1, theoldqueenshead.com
Roast
Hidden in the heart of Borough Market, Roast offers spectacular views and classically brilliant food in its effortlessly sophisticated but relaxed dining room. Greeted at the door by Christmas soldiers and an unmissable bauble arch, a lift whisks diners from the bustle of Borough to its stunning restaurant from which you’re able to look down and enjoy the view of busy Christmas shoppers. The Food here is faultless, with an impressive attention to detail given to their vegan offerings starting with the Christmas sour cocktail made with vegan egg. That extra effort continues on with the starter — a butternut squash soup served with vegan truffle cream. And for the main, a hearty vegan wellington served with all the trimmings. The icing on the (Christmas) cake? For dessert is a Christmas pudding complete with vegan custard. Roast also has an excellent wine selection, and wonderful atmosphere — unpretentious, but smart with every course feeling a little bit special.
The Floral Hall, Stoney Street, SE1, roast-restaurant.com
The Lighterman
A beautiful riverside restaurant in the heart of King’s Cross, The Lighterman has a lively atmosphere perfect for festive gatherings. From their extensive bar I’d recommend the Winter Cup cocktail and a table at the window to take in the wonderful views. To eat, the vegan farmers board sharer is a very impressive starter, stacked high with breads, pickled veg, vegan feta and much more. You may need a few more cocktails after this, before you’re ready to face a roast. The vegan roast option is a butternut squash and nut roast wellington with mushroom sauce, and all the veg. And for dessert the ultimate cosy crumble of Braeburn apple and winter berry.
