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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Simon Chilvers

London menswear rising stars - in pictures

Men's Fashion Houses: Lou Dalton
Lou Dalton Sports tailoring
Age: 36 Studied: MA menswear, Royal College of Art, London.
Describe your clothes. ­“Traditional sportswear, but with a fresh feel. Soft tailoring and knitwear are always in the ­collections – getting the right fabrics is really important.”
The collection: “It’s got a ­utilitarian rawness, but mixed with a city feel in terms of the tailoring. The inspirations ­include Shetland, the film ­Local Hero, Texas oil barons and ­pictures of my dad in overalls.”
Which men’s fashion should be banned? “Those shoes that turn up at the end.”
Stockists: Liberty, Dover Street Market, Opening Ceremony, Harvey Nichols.
Photograph: Frantzesco Kangaris for the Guardian
Men's Fashion Houses: Agi & Sam
Agi and Sam Strong print
Who? Agi Mdumulla, 26, who studied BA fashion at Manchester School of Art, and Sam Cotton, 25, who did illustration at Lincoln University.
Describe your clothes. “It’s a contemporary bespoke print label that doesn’t take fashion too seriously.” The collection: “Our muse this season is Alexander George Thynn, seventh Marquess of Bath. We’ve also been ­inspired by farmers and badger culling.”
Who would you most like to dress? “Vincent Gallo, Prince Charles and David Hockney.”
Which men’s fashion should be banned? “Ear stretcher plugs.”
Men’s fashion tip. “Galoshes.”
Stockists: Liberty.
Photograph: Frantzesco Kangaris for the Guardian
Men's Fashion Houses: Richard Nicoll
Richard Nicoll Colourful clean lines
Age: 35 Studied: BA menswear and MA womenswear, Central St Martins.
Describe your clothes. “Ease, simplicity, sporty elegance. Perfect wardrobe ­staples in the right colour and proportions.”
The collection: “The simple aesthetic continues, but it’s edgier. I’ve been looking at post-punk and industrial references. There’s a strong workwear element mixed with sportswear, leather, shirting, jacquards, lots of colour.”
Which men’s fashion should be banned? “Bow ties.”
Who would you most like to dress? “Joaquin Phoenix.”
Stockists: Matches, oki-ni, Mr Porter.
Photograph: Frantzesco Kangaris for the Guardian
Men's Fashion Houses: James Long
James Long Texture mixing
Age: 32 Studied: MA menswear, Royal College of Art.
Describe your clothes. “Leather, knitwear and print with a little nod to grunge. Hopefully we provide the ­answer for people who don’t want to wear a suit.”
The collection: “I started with marquetry and then, ­unconnected, John Waters films such as Pink Flamingos and Polyester. I’ve been ­experimenting with rubber, plastic, silicone. It’s quite ­colour heavy, the opposite of last season. It’s a bit sportier and the silhouette is wider.”
What men’s fashion should be banned? “Flip-flops.”
Stockists: Browns, Harvey ­Nichols, LN-CC.
Photograph: Frantzesco Kangaris for the Guardian
Men's Fashion Houses: Lee Roach
Lee Roach Minimalism
Age: 25 Studied: BA menswear, Central St Martins.
Describe your clothes. ­“Reduction and repetition – the eliminatation of all superfluous elements. Jackets appear tailored, but there is no canvas, no ­padding. It’s all reliant on cut.”
The collection: “It’s a continuation of what we do – it’s not all black. And we’re introducing knitwear.”
Did you always want to work in fashion? “I always wanted to design things and found the function of sportswear inspiring.”
What men’s fashion should be banned? “Fake heritage.”
Stockists: Dover Street Market, thecorner.com.
Photograph: Frantzesco Kangaris for the Guardian
Men's Fashion Houses: Sibling
Sibling Hot knits
Who? Sid Bryan, who ­studied knitwear at the Royal College of Art, Joe Bates, who ­studied fashion at Epsom School of Art, and Cozette ­McCreery (“I learned on the job”).
Describe your clothes. ­“Knitted. Fun. Positive.”
The collection: “It’s based on the origins of punk in New York: Richard Hell, Jayne County. Paula Yates is in there too.”
Which men’s fashion should be banned? “It’s not about items themselves, more the spirit in which they are worn.”
Stockists: Hervia, Opening Ceremony.
Photograph: Frantzesco Kangaris for the Guardian
Men's Fashion Houses: Christopher Shannon
Christopher Shannon Sexy sports
Age: 32 Studied: MA menswear, ­Central St Martins.
Describe your clothes. “It’s a dialogue between a very boysy, casual, street look, and fashion.”
The collection: “It’s definitely more grown up, a bit nerdier, rougher, darker. I’ve been watching lots of documentaries about hoarders and quite a lot of Werner Herzog films.”
Which men’s fashion should be banned? “Facial grooming I find really stressful.”
Men’s fashion tip. “Heat-tech socks.”
Stockists: Liberty, Asos for the diffusion range KIDDA, Selfridges.
Photograph: Frantzesco Kangaris for the Guardian
Men's Fashion Houses: J.W. Anderson
JW Anderson New androgyny
Age: 28 Studied: BA menswear, ­London College of Fashion.
Describe your clothes. “The boy and the girl co-exist in the same person. There’s a twisted, dropout schoolboy ­element. It’s not meant to shock but to challenge.”
The collection: “Waterproof-style fabrics meet obscure proportions of knitwear. Tiny little bags.”
Career highs? “A British fashion award, the Topshop ­collection, working with ­Versus. The last men’s collection is my favourite. I think it hit a chord about gender that ­people have not touched on before so aggressively.”
Stockists: oki-ni, LN-CC, thecorner.com.
Styling: Simon Chilvers
Model: Joe Fleming at Premier
Grooming: Victoria Bond at Mandy Coakley using Paul Mitchell and Sisley
Photograph: Frantzesco Kangaris for the Guardian
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