Get ready for a shortage of cabs and vibrantly dressed people in the capital – London fashion week begins on Friday, with more than 50 designers showcasing their autumn/winter 2015 collections. Here is the low-down about this season.
The biggest story on Friday isn’t a show at all
It’s a memorial to Louise Wilson – the Central Saint Martins professor who taught everyone from Alexander McQueen to Phoebe Philo and Christopher Kane, and died in May last year. The London fashion crowd is expected to turn out in force, with Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz making a speech. Wilson will be much missed, and this pause in the busy week’s schedule is a sign of how much.
Gareth Pugh is back
The Sunderland-born designer returns to London after 10 years showing in New York and Paris. This is good timing, with the McQueen retrospective Savage Beauty opening in less than a month. With his dramatic point of view, sharp tailoring skills, and shows that are closer to theatre than a catwalk show, Pugh could be seen as London fashion’s most worthy descendant.
It’s all about Super Monday
Editors will save their best outfits for Monday. Designer of the year winner Erdem is up at 11am, followed by Burberry and Christopher Kane. So that’s edgy prettiness, modern traditionalism and bad taste made beautiful all in one day. Not bad for your average Monday.
It’s all business
If LFW is renowned for creativity, the British Fashion Council’s business pillar is upping its commercial clout too. It has been working hard behind the scenes to turn London’s designers into bonafide brands. Some of the biggest catwalk names have benefited from working with mentors from the business community. It’s all overseen by James McArthur, CEO of highly successful brand Anya Hindmarch, who has the rather excellent title, president of the business pillar. Thanks to him, Emila Wickstead has gone from Sloaney favourite to proper fashion label.
Topshop loves its tech
As the official rep of the high street on the LFW schedule – and sponsor of NewGen talent such as 1205 and Ashley Williams – Topshop likes to be inclusive. Its latest strategy is to stream all Twitter conversations about LFW on to advertising hoardings around the UK, complete with trend hashtags such as, say#pleats. Passerbys can then tweet images of the hoardings @Topshop and receive a personalised shopping cart of clothes relevant to the trend. Just like that, commerce and creativity come together once again.
We might get a glimpse of Mulberry under Coca. Maybe
The Brit handbag brand announced Johnny Coca – an ex-Céline designer – as its new creative director in November. While he doesn’t officially start until July, this collection is the first since then, so editors will be on the hunt for his mark on Mulberry. Minimalism over jolliness – the trademark of previous creative director Emma Hill – will be the dead giveaway.
There’s a red carpet vs catwalk fashion face-off
The Oscars on Sunday evening has the potential to overshadow any catwalk coverage – who doesn’t want to see what the likes of Rosamund Pike and Eddie Redmayne are wearing? Tom Ford has even decamped his show to Los Angeles. It will take place on Friday evening, with – we predict – several re-wears come the red carpet at the ceremony on Sunday.
The Marques’Almeida gang is the one you want to be in
The Portuguese duo won Emerging Womenswear Designer award at the British Fashion awards in 2014, a much-deserved recognition of their place in London fashion. Responsible for making denim a thing again, their early-noughties aesthetic appeals to a new generation, many of whom wear their clothes in the front row. Their Tuesday show is a highlight of the final day.
