Qasimi has taken us on many journeys over the past couple of years, but for the label’s AW19 jaunt its creative director Khalid Al Qasimi transported us to an imagined future paradise.
In response to our present socio-political milieu, he crafted a collection with comfort as its core, but a comfort achieved by acclimation to an uncomfortable situation. The show notes signalled a utopian influence laying the foundation for menswear an urban nomad would wear to transport him to a place of idyll – in other words, cosy, stylish and sumptuous clothing.
Consistent with the Qasimi aesthetic, colours were compelling, proportions large, shapes synchronized and all the textures teased.
Using shades of brown, grey, plum and navy with pops of lime and sorbet, the eponymous designer and Central Saint Martins graduate sent 33 looks down the catwalk. On top there were voluminous coats, boxy shirts, biker and flak jackets, and rounded bomber jackets. These were mixed with cargo pants, short shorts and sweatpants.
Standout pieces were the oversized shirts with Art Deco portraits from American artist Mel Odom, the tiny sunglasses from a collab with Antwerp eyewear brand Komono, luxe nylon tracksuit sets and plenty of denim.
Staged inside the cold basement of Collins Music Hall (CML's) in Islington, models descended a 3-tier scaffolding structure before hitting the runway, which was covered in a grey carpet.
As with anyone seeking comfort, room is needed to facilitate manoeuvre and so, roomy silhouettes were aplenty. Al Qasimi made it clear though that serenity and security aren't exclusive (especially in the present) and sewed in the elements of protection via biker padding and layering details.
A la Qasimi's vision, Autumn Winter 2019 presents clothing that lets us imagine the idyllic in an imperfect reality. Not a bad idea, considering all things.
Style Tip Based On Qasimi's show: Sort your closet with an oversized piece for the upcoming winter season... a shirt, coat or jacket will do.
