London fashion week autumn/winter 2012: day one

The Antoni & Alison show at Somerset House. The Observer's Jo Jones and Helen Seamons celebrated the design duo's distinctive style with a closer look at the show Photograph: Gareth Cattermole/Getty Images

Antoni and Alison celebrated 25 years as a creative team with a show that used 'collages of fabric scraps, photographed the results and then digitally printed them on to silk shift dresses'. Rich Tea biscuits and Alison's wedding dress also contributed to the outfits on display Photograph: Jonathan Hordle/Rex Features

Bora Aksu is a Turkish born, London based designer who graduated from Central Saint Martins. He described the woman who he envisions wearing his clothes as 'defining beauty in her own way. Tori Amos captures this for me' Photograph: Tim Whitby/Getty Images

Bora Aksu also revealed a surprising new inspiration when he told London Fashion Week organisers: 'London is such a wonderful and diverse place that you can go anywhere and still find inspiration. Recently I have discovered the charity shops in High Barnet and found some amazing pieces' Photograph: Tim Whitby/Getty Images

Felder Felder, the label of twin sisters Daniela and Annette Felder, consistently draws props from the fashion press for its refined but effortlessly cool look Photograph: Carl Court/AFP/Getty Images

The Felder Felder autmun/winter 2012 show emphasised sweeping hemlines for an alternative red carpet look Photograph: Jonathan Short/AP

The Maria Grachvogel Autumn/Winter 2012 show at The Savoy Hotel. She said of the collection: 'I love the spirit of 1930s fashion, because it was an era when women really revelled in a new freedom in their clothes, throwing off their corsets and wearing these sensual fabrics. You get this glamorous mix of feminine lame with gentleman's tweed. It was that freedom - and the incredible jewel colours, the peridot green and garnet - that inspired these clothes' Photograph: Nick Harvey/WireImage

An art deco infused dress from the Maria Grachvogel collection Photograph: Kirsty Wigglesworth/AP