What’s going for it? I had no idea who St Asaph was either. He’s not one of your premier league saints, more Sunday Conference. In the Penguin Dictionary of Saints, he’s described as a “very shadowy figure”, though one praised by monks for his “charm of manners, grace of body and holiness of heart”, phrases that could also be applied to the cathedral city named after him. Having lived half my life in them, I know cathedral cities are a state of mind as much as an actual thing, a peculiar amalgam of conservatism and centuries of cosmopolitanism, misericords and eclectic heritage, with a dash of Trollope (even this far north and west) and a certain civility of living, the kind that demands the survival of nice old butchers’ shops. St Asaph passes the test. Though I use the word city with some caveats, of course. The place punches above its weight, culturally, with its international music festival this month, and its copy of the first Welsh Bible proudly on display. But this is no Winchester or Norwich. Blink and you’d miss it – with barely 3,500 souls, it is the country’s second smallest city. And, yes, they take the word seriously round here, having applied three times to be called a city before fortune smiled on them three years ago. Don’t, whatever you do, mention the V-word.
The case against The V-word: whisper it, it’s a village. Or, in a generous mood, a modest market town. Traffic: give the place a bypass, won’t you? It’s had its share of flooding in recent years.
Well connected? Trains: the nearest station is a 15-minute drive away at Rhyl, with hourly trains to Conwy (23 minutes), Bangor (40-ish) and beyond; or west to Chester (35). Driving: the A55 storms through: 15 minutes to the coast, 20 to Conwy or Llandudno, 40 to Bangor or Chester.
Schools Primaries: Esgob Morgan and St Asaph Infants are “good”, Estyn says. Secondaries: Uwchradd Glan Clwyd is “good”, too.
Hang out at… This is no gastronomic hotbed, but the White House is a nice, modern place to repair to.
Where to buy So small, it’s hard to go wrong, but east of the river is the favoured spot. Hunt for Victorians around Mount Road; nice homes on the Upper Denbigh Road, as well. Detacheds and town houses, £150,000-£800,000. Semis, £110,000-£250,000. Terraces/cottages, £90,000-£180,000. Rentals: not much of a market – a three-bed detached house might go for £850pcm.
Bargain of the week A large and elegant former chapel; needs permissions and complete conversion, but a real opportunity at £90,000; with Williams Estates.
From the streets
David Roberts “Aka Llanelwy in Welsh. Good food at the Bod Erw and the Plough, good butcher in Daniel Jones, Foxons for anglers, plus lovely river walks.”
Luca Soave “Jacob’s Ladder: a small cafe with delicious sandwiches and homemade cakes. Tweedmill farm shop: excellent Vale of Clwyd lamb and a good selection of Welsh beers.”
• Do you live in Holmfirth, West Yorkshire? Do you have a favourite haunt or pet hate? If so, email lets.move@theguardian.com by Tuesday 8 September.
