What’s going for it? “Barnstaple: it’s a must” goes the town’s slogan, which is, perhaps, overdoing it a little. “It’s a quite possibly” might be more accurate. Barnstaple has potential. Once upon a time it was quite the place, all Norman barons, wool exports and grand architecture, the third megalopolis of Devon, after Exeter and Plymouth. Then it wasn’t. That’s how fortune goes. Now it sits in North Devon without much to do, bypassed by holidaymakers en route for the sands at Croyde and Woolacombe. On the plus side, being mostly overlooked by much of the 20th century means it has some fine and pretty streets, a potentially beautiful waterfront, a 1930s cinema that seems barely changed since The Poseidon Adventure was up on its silver screen, and a nice line in historic arches: Barnstaple Long Bridge over the Taw has 16, the Victorian Pannier Market on Butchers Row 33. Were its light not quite so hidden under its bushel, Barnstaple could be quite the place again.
The case against Lacks va-va-voom. The centre has messed-about spots (ring roads, banal 80s offices) and the High Street is humdrum. Without the car parks and big roads, its riverside could be amazing.
Well connected? Trains: hourly on the Tarka Line to Exeter (66-82 mins). Driving: 15-20 mins to the beaches and Exmoor, 45 mins to the M5, an hour to Taunton and just over an hour to Exeter.
Schools Primaries: Pilton Bluecoat C of E, Yeo Valley, Our Lady’s Catholic, Ashleigh C of E, Orchard Vale and Sticklepath Community are all “good”, Ofsted says, with Newport Community “outstanding”. Secondaries: the Park and Pilton Community College are both “good”.
Hang out at… Your ordinary pub kind of place. In need of innovation. Head out of town to Broomhill Art hotel, or the Muddiford Inn, the Fremington Quay Cafe or the New Inn at Goodleigh.
Where to buy Pilton to the north has fine old cottages and town houses on and off Pilton Street. In Barnstaple proper, head south-east to Newport for fine Regency and later villas; Rock Park, Victoria Road, and out to suburbans at Rumsam or south-west to Sticklepath. Villagey terraces around Vicarage Street and Bear Street. Detacheds and town houses, £330,000-£600,000. Semis, £150,000-£350,000. Terraces and cottages, £140,000-£300,000. Flats, £80,000-£175,000. Rentals: one-bed flat, £375-£475pcm; three-bed house, £550-£850pcm.
Bargain of the week Pretty two-bed listed period cottage on historic Litchdon Street, £124,950, with chequershomes.co.uk.
From the streets
Chris Baker “Starfish for fish and chips. Wild & Natural on Butchers Row for well-hung venison.”
Peter Hames “The19th-century indoor Pannier Market is delightful, right in the middle of town. For its award-winning restaurant, beautiful sculpture garden and indoor art exhibits, head to Broomhill Art hotel just outside Barnstaple.”
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