What’s going for it? Beautiful Aberaeron is dolled up like an ad for Dulux (other paint brands are available). As is the fashion these days for pretty former fishing towns reliant on tourists, every house is painted a jaunty hue so that, viewed from the hills above, Aberaeron resembles a three-dimensional swatch card, or a 1970s fruit salad. There’s Berry Smoothie and Cranberry Crunch, Lemon Punch and Ginger Glow 4, Sea Blue, of course, and I’m sure I spot a Bermuda Cocktail. Some (the posh ones) have opted for Farrow & Ball, though in this chromatic battle, Elephant’s Breath is no match for Kiwi Burst. A doughty few, however, turn a blind eye. Their cottages are slathered in whitewash, or grey pebbledash. Porridge Plop, perhaps. Dour, but authentic. Fishing towns like Aberaeron, back when they actually fished, were serious places, soaked in heartache and hard work. No time or money for home decor. Porridge Plop was as good as it got.
The case against… Schools could be better. Far, far away, but then, that’s the point.
Well connected? Very much not. Trains: the nearest station is Aberystwyth, a 25-minute drive away, from which Shrewsbury (hourly) is an hour and 50 minutes and Birmingham (every two hours) three hours. Driving: Cardigan’s about 40 minutes, Carmarthen 50.
Schools Primaries: the latest report for Ysgol Gynradd Aberaeron says that it’s “adequate”. Secondaries: the town’s Ysgol Gyfun Aberaeron is, alas, “unsatisfactory”, says Estyn.
Hang out at… The big culinary cheese in town is the Harbourmaster. Though I can heartily recommend the cod, chips and mushy peas at New Celtic, and the gin menu at Hive.
Where to buy The heart, huddled round the harbour north of North Road, was built in the 1830s. It’s gorgeously preserved, with double-fronted late Georgian houses on gridded streets. Unmodernised properties are rare. The town gets Victorian and later the further out you go. Harbour and sea views have a premium. You’ll find similar, cheaper properties once you leave town; try Aberarth. Large detacheds and town houses, £400,000-£700,000. Detacheds, smaller town houses and large terraces, £200,000-£400,000. Terraces and cottages, £150,000-£200,000. No great rental market.
Bargain of the week Four-bed unmodernised (un-brightly-coloured) period semi just outside Aberaeron, in Aberarth, £192,000 with morgananddavies.co.uk.
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From the streets
Dylan Davies “It’s the jewel in the crown of Cardigan Bay; picturesque, with quirky independent shops. The only frustration is not having more affordable homes.”
Nigel Davies (no relation): “We’re on the extreme edge of Wales, but well connected: 16 miles to Aberystwyth, and a four-hour drive to London.”
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