Los Atico Mexican 5pm-2am (closes on Monday) Sukhumvit 11 02-015-8100 www.fb.com/losaticobkk
The Setting
Los Atico is a recent addition to Soi 11, which is on its way to become a food hub with many notable names setting up shop there. On the top floor of building that houses Cali-Mex Bar & Grill, Los Atico brings Mexican flavours and tequila- and mezcal-centric cocktails to the mix. Keeping with its positioning as a speakeasy, there's no sign to tell you where it is. Spoiler alert! You either get through a hidden door inside the building or through a spiral staircase at the back. It's worth the effort though as Los Atico puts on a big interior show.
Three renowned Miami-based graffiti artists -- Ruben Ubiera, Orgie and Golden -- give the restaurant's walls much swag. You'll be transported into a colourful world, which feels like a cross between mystery, liveliness and sexiness. Although there is a lot of skeletons and skulls, it strangely feels alive (and definitely IG-worthy). They take creating a unique atmosphere seriously and there's more surprises awaiting you in the restroom but I won't give everything away. In the dining area, a neon sign reads, "Tequila makes my clothes come off" with a sexy lady mural in the background and, oh, do they offer a lot of choices to imbibe yourself with. Moreover, the good news is that they put a lot of care into their food, as well.
The Menu
Chef Abel Ortiz A, formerly of the award-winning Central Restaurant in Peru, created the menu filled with Mexican faves such as tacos, ceviche and grill dishes. The menu doesn't contain a very long list of dishes but I like to think of it as shortlisted, not short.
I'm off to a flavourful start with Table side guacamole (B520). A waitress, in a red flannel shirt and bandanna, brings all the ingredients and you can tell her to adjust the taste to your liking. It was a refreshing starter and contained sweet bursts of pomegranate, which is unexpected in guac. There were so many flavours and textures in the mix and no two spoonfuls were the same.
For a more refreshing yet savoury start, opt for either the Ceviche Vallarta (B490) or Aguachile shrimp (B390) (or both). Basically, the former is sea bass ceviche, while the latter is shrimp. Both were served on a bowl of ice for a nice presentation. I dug both of them for their strong and vibrant flavours but the shrimp one contained coconut milk to buffer "tiger's milk", resulting in a milder sensation.
Tequila USDA rib-eye (B2,400) is definitely a highlight, giving a lot for you to sink your teeth into. The succulent piece of meat was coated in poignant chimichurri and you can add a salty touch to it with pink Himalayan sea salt. Beef lovers with smaller wallet may want to opt for Barbacoa beef short rib (B1,700) instead. You'll have to work a bit with this dish. By that, I mean make yourself a little taco but putting together freshly-baked corn tortillas, a slice of avocado, a squeeze of lime, roasted tomato salsa and fall-of-the-bone slow-cooked meat. I say it's well worth getting your hands a little dirty.
The meal ended on a sweet note with Churros (B170) or what Thais colloquially refer to as Spanish patonggo. It was fancy, being served à la mode with strawberry sorbet, crumble biscuit and condensed caramel sauce. It could have been a perfect end, had the outside been more crunchy.
Insider's Tip
Los Atico is a sibling venue to Hong Kong's Los Sotano, which also prides itself on tequila and mezcal drinks. Drink-wise, Los Atico offers plenty to choose from and you can expect various choices of creative agave-based cocktails with playful names. I had Bad Hombre (B450), which comes in a beer bottle inside a brown bag (a nod to a way to hide that you're drinking in public).
After a foamy prelude, salty sparks were washed down in smooth sips. Where there's smoke... (B570) is one out of five margaritas on offer. This mezcal-based cocktail gave a spicy/fruity sensation and thicker consistency from mango purée, being inspired by the Big Mango itself.
Lightweight drinkers (me included) be warned. You'll definitely turn red. Ladies night (or should I say chicas), take place every Wed from 7pm to midnight during which a bottle of Chandon Brut is free for a group of four ladies or more and 50% off on all margaritas, all night. True tequila enthusiasts should ask the bar to see the limited edition set of Guillermo Del Toro's collab with Patrón.
Value and Verdict
Los Atico is a stylish place to drink the night away and enjoy good food to boot. The price to spend an evening here doesn't come cheap, though.
